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Tuesday 2 December 2008

on the coral reef of Belize

Despite the narrowness of its area, Belize holds the second longest coral reef in the world after the Australian one. Not far from its coast, the whims of the geology gave birth to and assortment of more or less elongated islands, locally known as « cayes ». From Belize city, the economic capital of the country, I take the shuttle that drops me off at Caye Caulker, one hour away. A small fishermen's village which transformed itself into a holidays destination for backpackers on a budget. The dusty streets cross-rule this hamlet where pile up hotels, restaurants and diving centers.

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The snorkeling and scuba diving are one of the main appeals of this island because, on the beaches side, there are nonexistent. Then, I book a 3-tank outing at the Frenchie's divers club for the next day.
Two hours away by boat, the nature has got one of its quirks in store for us; a perfect deep-blue circle that stands out from the surrounding turquoise. A view from above and this curiosity takes all its dimensions. However, not everything happens in the sky because the sunken part of this 100m-wide 130m-deep blue hole acts like a magnet to divers; a wall with an astounding verticality hiding a -40m submarine grotto. Inside the formerly open-air cavity, over-several-meter-high titanic stalagmites formed. In the distance, gray reef sharks seem to be held prisoner in the aquatic trap set by the blue hole. A dive unfortunately too short but rich on the emotional level.
Before getting back, 2 other dives complete the programme, Half Moon Wall and The Aquarium as well as a break on a heavenly island, Half Moon Caye. Turtles, rays, barracudas express themselves within this submarine paradise which vindicate the two-hour trip on a rough sea.

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(image empruntée à National Geographic)
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And to harmoniously finish my round-the-world trip in diving, I breathe my last puffs of compressed air in the Hol Chan marine reserve. I stay for long minutes lost in admiration for spotted eagle-rays. The kind of fabulous animals which feed my passion and the desire to merge with the aquatic universe.

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Friday 28 November 2008

boat trip up to Lamanai


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Following the example of the Asterix's Gallic village, a little bit of Anglo-Saxon-cultured land resists in Central America. The only country in this part of the world where English is the official language since Guatemala accepted to give up this land to the British crown. In return, the latter had promised to build a road between the Caribbean and Pacific coasts. The road was never built up and Belize got its independence a little bit more than 20 years ago. It's a sparsely populated country which is however packed with a striking cultural and ethnic diversity. Mayas and mestizos constitute the largest ethnic group to such an extent that, in the street, the Spanish speakers outnumber the English ones. Beside this group, more than 10% of the population is Mennonite; the Garifuna culture spreads over the coast and the islands of the country; and a great number of Chinese and Indians took over the shops. With hardly 300 000 inhabitants, Belize is an example of integration and tolerance.
However, a long time before the modern man draws arbitrary borders, the Mayan people lived in all over Belize and a lot of remains and old cities can be visited. Lamanai is one of them and has the special feature of being accessible by boat. A 2-hour trip on a greenery-flanked cloudy-watered river. Despite our noisy ride, several animals come and see us such as green iguanas, crocodiles, and spider-monkeys. The cruise finally turns out to be pretty short and we carry on with the visit of the archaeological site. A small park where the main buildings offer a gorgeous view over the canopy and the river. We finish our stroll at the end of the afternoon and sail back to the city of Orange Walk.

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