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Tuesday 2 December 2008

on the coral reef of Belize

Despite the narrowness of its area, Belize holds the second longest coral reef in the world after the Australian one. Not far from its coast, the whims of the geology gave birth to and assortment of more or less elongated islands, locally known as « cayes ». From Belize city, the economic capital of the country, I take the shuttle that drops me off at Caye Caulker, one hour away. A small fishermen's village which transformed itself into a holidays destination for backpackers on a budget. The dusty streets cross-rule this hamlet where pile up hotels, restaurants and diving centers.

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The snorkeling and scuba diving are one of the main appeals of this island because, on the beaches side, there are nonexistent. Then, I book a 3-tank outing at the Frenchie's divers club for the next day.
Two hours away by boat, the nature has got one of its quirks in store for us; a perfect deep-blue circle that stands out from the surrounding turquoise. A view from above and this curiosity takes all its dimensions. However, not everything happens in the sky because the sunken part of this 100m-wide 130m-deep blue hole acts like a magnet to divers; a wall with an astounding verticality hiding a -40m submarine grotto. Inside the formerly open-air cavity, over-several-meter-high titanic stalagmites formed. In the distance, gray reef sharks seem to be held prisoner in the aquatic trap set by the blue hole. A dive unfortunately too short but rich on the emotional level.
Before getting back, 2 other dives complete the programme, Half Moon Wall and The Aquarium as well as a break on a heavenly island, Half Moon Caye. Turtles, rays, barracudas express themselves within this submarine paradise which vindicate the two-hour trip on a rough sea.

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(image empruntée à National Geographic)
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And to harmoniously finish my round-the-world trip in diving, I breathe my last puffs of compressed air in the Hol Chan marine reserve. I stay for long minutes lost in admiration for spotted eagle-rays. The kind of fabulous animals which feed my passion and the desire to merge with the aquatic universe.

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Friday 21 November 2008

among old stones and seasides


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On the way which brings us back to the Caribbean coast, we stop at different Mayan sites and various seasides that pleasantly cut off the long car journey. The tourist-deserted Kohunlich ruins or the most popular ones of Coba or Tulum show a part of all the remnants left by the Mayan Empire. A so rich civilization that new cities are regularly discovered in the middle of the forest which stretches out from Mexico to Honduras. For the stone lovers, a trip to the Yucatan is no sinecure. To talk again about Tulum, it nestles on the seashore with its foundations that dip in the Caribbean Sea. Despite its small size, it offers an almost perfect panorama to let oneself go to a sunset.

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Tuesday 11 November 2008

Into the turquoise blue waters of the Caribbean Sea

As I take my plane towards Los Angeles where I stop over in, I turn over one of the most beautiful leaf of my round-the-world trip which will have lasted almost 2 months from Fiji to Vanuatu and Hawaii. An entirely blue leaf smudged with a cluster of intoxicating ink stains like all these islands, archipelagos and atolls of the Pacific Ocean. But, unlike the blackish medallions which splashed over my leaf, these bits of lands have their history, their people, their traditions often blending exhilaration and laid-back atmosphere. Before leaving for my long trip, all these islands seemed unreachable and hard to pinpoint on a map, my view evolved and I filled up my pouch of memories for a whole life. From now on, I change scenery as I land in the tumultuous city of Cancun where I meet again Armelle after eleven weeks of separation.
During the 70's, property developers and government were seeking a place on the Caribbean coast to create the counterpart of Acapulco (seaside town on the Pacific). They set their heart on a long strip of white sand, they built roads and infrastructures, buried pipes to bring drinkable water and established Cancun. Today, despite the regular cyclones causing terrible damages, the touristic success is considerable and widely goes beyond the of-that-time property developers' forecasts. The disfigured coastline by the hideous concrete-made parallelepipeds doesn't take away the main thing in any way : a plaster-like sand watered by a turquoise-blue water.

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Since we arrived, the Mexicans are really nice and very far from the caricature of the nasty Latino who haunts the Hollywood movies. However, despite the hospitality of the people, a seaside resort remains a seaside resort. That's fortunately possible to escape these horrible palaces by taking a shuttle which drops us off on the soothing isla mujeres, half an hour from mainland. On the spot, the ambiance is relaxed and to be in fashion, we must drive a golf cart. No risk to exceed the speed limit but we drive at a pleasing pace to discover all the corners of the island. At the south point, dinosaur-like iguanas warm themselves up on the sun-kissed stones. Down below, this turquoise, which printed into our retinas, invites to swim. Not the last bath for sure into an about 28°C water.

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