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Monday 24 November 2008

the spellbinding play of light in the cenotes

Divers of all over the world rush to the Yucatan for a little bit special immersion. And so do I, I gave in to temptation, the weird universe of the cave diving. Here, no fish, no corals, no current, but a couple of stalagmites and stalactites, flabbergasting plays of light, a visibility that can reach 100m and a Dantean impression of navigating in another world. For my introductory dives, I booked an intensive day with the discovery of 3 cenotes, Dos Ojos, Calavera and Grand Cenote. An inebriating selection: Dos Ojos for its subaquatic rocky outgrowths and the rays of the sun which in places hit this submerged cathedral, Calavera for its green waters and haloclines and Grand Cenote for its half-moon shape. Before diving, we get strict instructions about the safety. We go into the water and fitted with a lamp we start kicking alongside an Ariadne's thread. The feeling of breathing underground and wandering about among an almost complete darkness make me shiver with joy. We play with the stalactites surrounded by a heavy silent that only the noise of our bubbles tear. At the end of the Dos Ojos cave, a hole lets the rays of a soft and saving light gush out; the divers of another group seem to hover in the middle of this luminous halo. Exhilaration of gliding in this unreal world. Time goes too fast and we are already at half-dive, we go astern and kick towards the entrance. We get off, the smile clung to our lips and not totally recovered from our underground experience.
The other dives will complete the emotional patchwork of these aquatic peregrinations.

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Halfway between Tulum and Playa del Carmen, another cenote attracts the fans or neo-enthusiasts of these underground aquatic networks. The cenote Chacmool offers the most beautiful plays of light and to that, we'll have the unforgettable opportunity to split the dive into two by surfacing into a grottoe. We take off our masks and regulators to contemplate this exclusive cavity. We are the pioneers in front of their discovery. Filled with pleasure, we swim on the surface, we observe the different stalactites and the roots of several trees which seep through the rock to come and draw the nourishing liquid. It's time to leave our find and kick back towards the land with the same sensation of not being completely here when we finish the dive, the mind drifting at several meters underwater.

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Friday 21 November 2008

among old stones and seasides


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On the way which brings us back to the Caribbean coast, we stop at different Mayan sites and various seasides that pleasantly cut off the long car journey. The tourist-deserted Kohunlich ruins or the most popular ones of Coba or Tulum show a part of all the remnants left by the Mayan Empire. A so rich civilization that new cities are regularly discovered in the middle of the forest which stretches out from Mexico to Honduras. For the stone lovers, a trip to the Yucatan is no sinecure. To talk again about Tulum, it nestles on the seashore with its foundations that dip in the Caribbean Sea. Despite its small size, it offers an almost perfect panorama to let oneself go to a sunset.

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Tuesday 18 November 2008

Palenque: in the heart of the forest


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Within the Chiapas state, on the land of the Zapatist Revolutionary Army (EZLN) with the subcommandante Marcos in the front line, we went and got a jungle-nestled Mayan site. We emancipate from the Yucatan peninsula for a couple of days at the edge of the Guatemalan border. From the pleasant town of Palenque we reach the eponymous archaeological site. The city differs from the previous ones as for the style and with the harmonious invasion of the nature. Because, except the core of the ancient Mayan capital, basking in the glow of nice stone buildings, the jungle is everywhere. The trees take roots into the foundations of the edifices driving to a symbiosis between the nature and the archaeological remnants. A visit which is worth misdemeanour, hundreds of kilometers from Cancun.

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In the surroundings of Palenque, two other highlights see their car parks filling up during the day. The first one is the Misol-Ha waterfall, a thin curtain of water, encircled by the same greenery that sheltered the Mayan site and the second one, an amassing of limestone basins which pour into one another. Each point of view looking out onto these short waterfalls invites to a break. Down below, the sun, within its struggle with the clouds, makes shimmer the river when its rays reach the water surface.

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