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Tuesday 2 December 2008

on the coral reef of Belize

Despite the narrowness of its area, Belize holds the second longest coral reef in the world after the Australian one. Not far from its coast, the whims of the geology gave birth to and assortment of more or less elongated islands, locally known as « cayes ». From Belize city, the economic capital of the country, I take the shuttle that drops me off at Caye Caulker, one hour away. A small fishermen's village which transformed itself into a holidays destination for backpackers on a budget. The dusty streets cross-rule this hamlet where pile up hotels, restaurants and diving centers.

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The snorkeling and scuba diving are one of the main appeals of this island because, on the beaches side, there are nonexistent. Then, I book a 3-tank outing at the Frenchie's divers club for the next day.
Two hours away by boat, the nature has got one of its quirks in store for us; a perfect deep-blue circle that stands out from the surrounding turquoise. A view from above and this curiosity takes all its dimensions. However, not everything happens in the sky because the sunken part of this 100m-wide 130m-deep blue hole acts like a magnet to divers; a wall with an astounding verticality hiding a -40m submarine grotto. Inside the formerly open-air cavity, over-several-meter-high titanic stalagmites formed. In the distance, gray reef sharks seem to be held prisoner in the aquatic trap set by the blue hole. A dive unfortunately too short but rich on the emotional level.
Before getting back, 2 other dives complete the programme, Half Moon Wall and The Aquarium as well as a break on a heavenly island, Half Moon Caye. Turtles, rays, barracudas express themselves within this submarine paradise which vindicate the two-hour trip on a rough sea.

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(image empruntée à National Geographic)
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And to harmoniously finish my round-the-world trip in diving, I breathe my last puffs of compressed air in the Hol Chan marine reserve. I stay for long minutes lost in admiration for spotted eagle-rays. The kind of fabulous animals which feed my passion and the desire to merge with the aquatic universe.

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Monday 24 November 2008

the spellbinding play of light in the cenotes

Divers of all over the world rush to the Yucatan for a little bit special immersion. And so do I, I gave in to temptation, the weird universe of the cave diving. Here, no fish, no corals, no current, but a couple of stalagmites and stalactites, flabbergasting plays of light, a visibility that can reach 100m and a Dantean impression of navigating in another world. For my introductory dives, I booked an intensive day with the discovery of 3 cenotes, Dos Ojos, Calavera and Grand Cenote. An inebriating selection: Dos Ojos for its subaquatic rocky outgrowths and the rays of the sun which in places hit this submerged cathedral, Calavera for its green waters and haloclines and Grand Cenote for its half-moon shape. Before diving, we get strict instructions about the safety. We go into the water and fitted with a lamp we start kicking alongside an Ariadne's thread. The feeling of breathing underground and wandering about among an almost complete darkness make me shiver with joy. We play with the stalactites surrounded by a heavy silent that only the noise of our bubbles tear. At the end of the Dos Ojos cave, a hole lets the rays of a soft and saving light gush out; the divers of another group seem to hover in the middle of this luminous halo. Exhilaration of gliding in this unreal world. Time goes too fast and we are already at half-dive, we go astern and kick towards the entrance. We get off, the smile clung to our lips and not totally recovered from our underground experience.
The other dives will complete the emotional patchwork of these aquatic peregrinations.

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Halfway between Tulum and Playa del Carmen, another cenote attracts the fans or neo-enthusiasts of these underground aquatic networks. The cenote Chacmool offers the most beautiful plays of light and to that, we'll have the unforgettable opportunity to split the dive into two by surfacing into a grottoe. We take off our masks and regulators to contemplate this exclusive cavity. We are the pioneers in front of their discovery. Filled with pleasure, we swim on the surface, we observe the different stalactites and the roots of several trees which seep through the rock to come and draw the nourishing liquid. It's time to leave our find and kick back towards the land with the same sensation of not being completely here when we finish the dive, the mind drifting at several meters underwater.

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Thursday 6 November 2008

night dive with the manta rays

For these last 2 days on the large Hawaiian land, I rented a car, a Chrysler PT Cruiser. I drive to the west coast where, close to the airport, during the air waltz of the jumbo jets, a handful of boats agglutinate in a little bay where they thrived a peculiar activity, the manta rays night dive. It's precisely where I will be tonight. On the way, I make a detour by the black sand beach the turtles lay down on. They are only 3 today, but my joy to approach them is as great as yesterday. I can't linger because the road is still long up to Kailua. 1H30 later, I arrive at the diving center where I comply with the formalities. The price is exorbitant, it adds up to 170$ for 2 dives. I get to the boat at 3PM where the staff welcome the divers of the day. As we navigate to the bay, a dolphins' family offers us a aerobatics show. A savoury starter preceding our immersion.

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After the briefing, we go into the water for the first dive. A tasteless immersion, far from the marvels of the Indian Ocean. However, the interest focuses on the second dive. The dusk motivates us to put on our equipment again and equipped with a torchlight, we jump into the water. A several-torch-kitted box was established at 10m deep underwater and light the surface. Different series of divers come and kneel down around this luminous seamark and put their lamps upwards. This cluster of light attracts swarms of plankton which manta rays are very fond of. After a 20-minute vain waiting, the dive master decides to move on to the spare plan with a normal night dive when one of the divers shakes his torchlight and all our eyes turn back. The sea devil flies to the light shaft. Our breathing cuts themselves off, the time of this mind-blowing dance. The creature will make two other rides before vanishing into the dark blue. We will wait for its or one of its fellow member's come back but in vain. We get on the boat, glad of this brief appearance when another ray comes by the hull. Each one of us is delighted with this double encounter while we go back to the pier in a starry sky.



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