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Thursday 6 November 2008

night dive with the manta rays

For these last 2 days on the large Hawaiian land, I rented a car, a Chrysler PT Cruiser. I drive to the west coast where, close to the airport, during the air waltz of the jumbo jets, a handful of boats agglutinate in a little bay where they thrived a peculiar activity, the manta rays night dive. It's precisely where I will be tonight. On the way, I make a detour by the black sand beach the turtles lay down on. They are only 3 today, but my joy to approach them is as great as yesterday. I can't linger because the road is still long up to Kailua. 1H30 later, I arrive at the diving center where I comply with the formalities. The price is exorbitant, it adds up to 170$ for 2 dives. I get to the boat at 3PM where the staff welcome the divers of the day. As we navigate to the bay, a dolphins' family offers us a aerobatics show. A savoury starter preceding our immersion.

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After the briefing, we go into the water for the first dive. A tasteless immersion, far from the marvels of the Indian Ocean. However, the interest focuses on the second dive. The dusk motivates us to put on our equipment again and equipped with a torchlight, we jump into the water. A several-torch-kitted box was established at 10m deep underwater and light the surface. Different series of divers come and kneel down around this luminous seamark and put their lamps upwards. This cluster of light attracts swarms of plankton which manta rays are very fond of. After a 20-minute vain waiting, the dive master decides to move on to the spare plan with a normal night dive when one of the divers shakes his torchlight and all our eyes turn back. The sea devil flies to the light shaft. Our breathing cuts themselves off, the time of this mind-blowing dance. The creature will make two other rides before vanishing into the dark blue. We will wait for its or one of its fellow member's come back but in vain. We get on the boat, glad of this brief appearance when another ray comes by the hull. Each one of us is delighted with this double encounter while we go back to the pier in a starry sky.



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Wednesday 5 November 2008

turtles and green sand


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Big Island brings its lot of surprises. On the south coast, we make a detour to stroke the black sand of the Panu'ulu beach. But today, peaceful denizens besieged the place, 4 green turtles lounge. An intimate moment and a noticeable chance to see them so close after observing them underwater many times. With a terrible effort, contrasting with their graceful swimming, they heave themselves up onto the beach. The bottom of their shell and their feet leave a furrow into the dark sand. Exhausted, they let their heavy head freely go to one side and don't pay attention at the onlookers who came to marvel at.

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I don't want to leave any longer but Cho and Hé would like to discover the south point of the island which is also the southernmost tip of the USA. After several pictures, we park our Jeep and walk eastwards. Three quarters of an hour to get to a beach. But why walking such a time to see a strip of sand while magnificent crescents scatter all around the island ? Because this beach is special, made of olivine crystals for most of it. And far from the common colours of a common beach, here, the sand is... green! I collect a handful of this precious blend and make the particles shimmer in the sun and no doubt, it's really green! However, the state forbids the sand-collectors to draw this precious jewel, it will cost a 500$ fine. We spread out our towels on this greenish ground and carry on perplexedly watching at this weird sand.

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Tuesday 4 November 2008

wide angle over Big Island


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We leave the volcanoes to reach the coastal road. We want to cover the north and east side of the island hoping to discover paradisiac beaches or breathtaking viewpoints. Our Jeep navigates on the bituminous ribbon which juggles among beaches and cliffs. Within the cracks of the steep rock faces, the valleys squeeze a thick vegetation which glides towards the ocean. The northern Polulu valley competes with the southern Waipio valley. Our eyes get lost into the immensity of the landscapes and far down, when the water meets the stone, it dies into a white foam. We take again the road to venture hinterland for a couple of hours. The scenery changes so fast, here we are in the tropical forest. But our presence is not the fruit of chance, that's to encounter a few particles of suicidal water that makes a great leap from the top of a cliff, the Akaka falls.

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