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Tuesday 4 November 2008

wide angle over Big Island


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We leave the volcanoes to reach the coastal road. We want to cover the north and east side of the island hoping to discover paradisiac beaches or breathtaking viewpoints. Our Jeep navigates on the bituminous ribbon which juggles among beaches and cliffs. Within the cracks of the steep rock faces, the valleys squeeze a thick vegetation which glides towards the ocean. The northern Polulu valley competes with the southern Waipio valley. Our eyes get lost into the immensity of the landscapes and far down, when the water meets the stone, it dies into a white foam. We take again the road to venture hinterland for a couple of hours. The scenery changes so fast, here we are in the tropical forest. But our presence is not the fruit of chance, that's to encounter a few particles of suicidal water that makes a great leap from the top of a cliff, the Akaka falls.

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Monday 14 July 2008

In the elephants' sanctuary


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Following the short excursion to Zimbabwe, we go back to the town of Kasane. Entrance gate to the Chobe national park where one of the greatest concentrations of elephants live in with 60000 individuals. The tourist accommodations stand on the Chobe riverbanks, a handful of kilometers away from the park entrance.

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Down to the holiday residences, a lot of boats cast off for a mini-cruise. We take place aboard on one of them. 2 large metallic floats propelled by 2 outboard engines leave the quay of the lodge. On the main deck, chairs are settled and a platform towers up the upper deck we can reach by a stairs. We quickly catch sight of dark spots that stand out from the horizon. The green bed as country of refuge. Not far from these herds of elephants, various birds, hippopotamuses and crocodiles thrill the muddy riverbanks.
Everything seems serene on the land of the ivory-tusked colossus when one of these giants undertakes the crossing of the river. The grass is always greener at the neighbour's. Each member takes its place behind the leader to form a single line. We are the fortunate witnesses of a mere step in the life of these quadrupeds. The colony emerge on the opposite bank. The most awkward ones stumble on the slippery shore. When the group is reconstituted, the elephants start again their heavy pace, in search of savoury grass. As for us, we enjoy this intense sequence of wildlife until the sunset.

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The next day, roosters haven't thundered yet we leave for a safari alongside this river. We complete the exploration of the park for our last activity in Botswana before driving throughout the country to get to South Africa.

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Monday 30 June 2008

The white rhinoceros of the Waterberg plateau


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Our first meeting with the animals of the savannah will take place on the Waterberg plateau. A huge rocky outgrowth surrounded by a curtain of cliffs the fate of the geology knocked in the middle of a plain. An approach track leads to this natural fortress where a flock of animals graze. Animals which, without knowing it, are prisoners of this lost world. Between the upper and lower part of the plateau, the vegetation diversity is striking. Jeep safaris are offered to go and discover these animals. We hop on one of them and let's go to the plateau...


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Few animals to be noted despite all our attention. Some warthogs wonder about these aliens which step on their land. A quite-paradoxical animal since it is particularly fond of wallowing in the mud but still keeps a certain elegance to escape, the tail up. A little bit further, an eland – the biggest antelope – bolts in front of us. We unsuccessfully stop at several waterholes when, on a dirt track, three greyish colossuses loom. One of them faces us. A wonderful 2-ton-plus double-horned white rhinoceros. It feels the intruder's presence without really distinguishing it. We slowly go on when the rhino charges at us! The driver's composure is heroic – he goes into reverse and the animal stops. The 3 rhinoceroses swiftly cross the road and establish their position on the other bank. Unspeakable feeling of joy to observe these animals in their natural habitat.


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We happily go back to the campsite. A refreshing night to start the stroll up to the edge of the cliffs, the next morning. The rising sun floods the top of the stone. When there is enough light, we begin the walk among red rock and verdant nature. An exploring walk that drives us onto the roof of the plateau. The rough-outlined carmine red stone under our feet and the flat plain as far as the eye can see. Intense silence. Immense serenity.

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To share the pleasure of crossing this African animal life so vivacious, so ferocious sometimes and which habitat is so fragile, here is one of the smallest antelope: the Damara dik-dik. It's not necessarily the biggest animals which are the most beautiful nor the sweetest...


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