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Friday 25 July 2008

the hyenas in action at Hluhluwe-iMfolozi

At the beginning of our trip, while our eyes and memory were virgin of pictures of savannah and its fauna, A South-African, met on the Waterberg plateau in Namibia praised us the beauty and the high concentration of animals clustered in the Hluhluwe-iMfolozi park ( Zulu word pronounced Chluchluwi – Imfolozi). This name engraved on our log book and here we are now.
a few minutes after crossing the automatic barrier, several engine-stopped jeeps are crammed in the middle of the road. We switch off the engine and without seeing the scene, we recognize a characteristic sly cry. A lion is not far but about ten cunning hyenas succeeded in pinching a chunk of an antelope's carcass the predator had hunted. A laugh to flout it.
the bush sways. 2 hyenas appear, the loot in the mouth. Not at all disturbed by the human flock pressed against the protective guardrail of the jeeps, the 2 protagonists followed by some greedy and opportunistic fellow members cross the road before putting down the bloody carcass on the tarmac. One of females will finally have the last word and move away at the edge of road to enjoy its meal by dint of dreadful noises. Cracking sounds provided by a frighteningly powerful jaw.

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After this morning firework, the day will be more dull despite the constant pleasure to watch every bush and every branch in the hope of flushing out the presence of an animal.

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Sunday 20 July 2008

the Kruger park: a nation dedicated to the wildlife

At the eastern part of South Africa, stretching from the Limpopo river at the north to the Crocodile river at the south and flanking the Mozambique border, the largest and oldest South-African park is located: the Kruger park. As vast as Israel, it encompasses various ecosystems and hundreds of thousands of animals. The last inventory discloses : 25150 buffaloes
11700 elephants
5000 white rhinoceroses
3000 hippopotamuses
1500 lions
1000 leopards
2000 spotted hyenas
200 cheetahs
350 wild dogs
150000 impalas
32000 zebras
17000 wildebeests
and 1 000 000 visitors per year
To the visitors getting into the park, the tourist brochure announces « a trip in an inestimable heritage of southern Africa ». The staggering figures promise unforgettable encounters. They can be felines, cattle or pachyderms, each confrontation is unique ; each meeting, a part of feelings that vanishes. To silence their number, the impalas show their grace. Because, it's regarding to the quantity of rare animals we can recognize a lucky person or a good visual hunter. Our result is honourable with about ten hyenas, 2 lions, a white rhinoceros and tens or even hundreds of zebras, wildebeests, kudus, impalas, hippopotamuses and elephants. The leopard is still untraceable. It will remain the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi park to complete our “big 5” list.
We drive a lot to cover the different habitats and ecosystems. Steep-sided rivers, rocky areas, fields of twisted or partially jointed shrubs, long savannah plains. Our eyes scan the branches with obstinacy, in search for the spotted feline. On the knees, a map with all the animals we can find here. We learn a lot of names such as waterbuck, sable antelope, kori bastard or ground-hornbill. Unfortunately, most of these names will remain linked to an illustration.
New odyssey among the animals. New joys.

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Monday 14 July 2008

In the elephants' sanctuary


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Following the short excursion to Zimbabwe, we go back to the town of Kasane. Entrance gate to the Chobe national park where one of the greatest concentrations of elephants live in with 60000 individuals. The tourist accommodations stand on the Chobe riverbanks, a handful of kilometers away from the park entrance.

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Down to the holiday residences, a lot of boats cast off for a mini-cruise. We take place aboard on one of them. 2 large metallic floats propelled by 2 outboard engines leave the quay of the lodge. On the main deck, chairs are settled and a platform towers up the upper deck we can reach by a stairs. We quickly catch sight of dark spots that stand out from the horizon. The green bed as country of refuge. Not far from these herds of elephants, various birds, hippopotamuses and crocodiles thrill the muddy riverbanks.
Everything seems serene on the land of the ivory-tusked colossus when one of these giants undertakes the crossing of the river. The grass is always greener at the neighbour's. Each member takes its place behind the leader to form a single line. We are the fortunate witnesses of a mere step in the life of these quadrupeds. The colony emerge on the opposite bank. The most awkward ones stumble on the slippery shore. When the group is reconstituted, the elephants start again their heavy pace, in search of savoury grass. As for us, we enjoy this intense sequence of wildlife until the sunset.

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The next day, roosters haven't thundered yet we leave for a safari alongside this river. We complete the exploration of the park for our last activity in Botswana before driving throughout the country to get to South Africa.

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