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Monday 15 September 2008

the leeches of the oldest jungle in the world

At the far northeast of Malaysia, close to the Thai border, my watch gives 6h AM. The sky is still dark when I get on the jungle train. A scenic railway which goes through and gives life to the interior of the country. A handful of villages and farms are the meagre signs of the human presence in the middle of the dense vegetation which borders the route. In the beginning of the afternoon, I get off the train in the village of Jerantut before catching a bus heading for the Taman Negara national park. A genuine jungle, older than the Amazon or the forests of the Congo, which shows an age of 130 millions years. It withstood the successive deluges, geological variations, volcanic activities and for a long time I hope the human appetite for deforestation.
A number of marked-out trails go into the forest. One of them leads to a series of swinging bridges above the canopy. Another one goes alongside the river in the middle of the inextricable vegetation. A range of plants occupy the low layers of the jungle while long trees point at the sky to catch the sun rays. En route, a myriad of insects creep on the ground. more-than-2-centimeter-long titanic ants frenetically walk on the scenic trail. My foot hesitates when it meets a 15-centimeter-long scorpion. But my most appalling encounter will happen when I will lift my tee-shirt noting a dozen of leeches kindly invited themselves on my belly and my legs. It's not painful but they remain hanged until trebling or quadrupling their volume, force-feeding themselves with blood. To make easier their pumping work, they inject an anticoagulant which puts off the healing of the injury. I will wait for several hours before seeing my tiny wounds close up. Jungle hazards.
The next day, I leave the jungle by boat for a relaxing ride on one of the river muddy waters of the park. Back to the civilized world.

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Saturday 13 September 2008

A certain conception of the happiness

No sooner said than done, I pack my bag and leave to try my luck on the east coast of the Malaysian peninsular. According to the weather forecasts, it should be fine – or not rain at least. The choice of the islands is quite large and I opt for Pulau Redang, not really an island for backpackers since to get there we must book a package in advance which includes nights and submarine activities. The harbour is rather chaotic. Each resort has its own boat or subcontracts this part to another resort and without a guide it would have been hard to find my way by myself. The journey lasts one hour when I swap the shuttle-boat for a small one, about a hundred meters from the shore.
I take off my shoes and land on a barren beach. A strip of sand a series of bungalows are laid on and surrounded by a thick forest of coconut trees. It's off-season which accentuates the Robinson Crusoe of my arrival. This narrow strand of sand gathers everything I like, walking alone one a remote beach, scaling on the rocks where monkeys took up residence, sitting down and listening to the rumble of the water or turning over the sand to look for shells. I entertain a certain conception of happiness.

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To complete this peaceful life, the day is made up of 2 or 3 dives to enjoy the pleasure of the underwater landscapes. And the most difficult thing when I flounder into the water is to see my pressure gauge invariably going down and realize kicking up is inevitable because I don't have air in the tank any more.

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Sunday 7 September 2008

the Langkawi island in the rain


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On the west coast, not far from the Thai border, the favourite holiday spot for Malaysians and Singaporeans is called Langkawi. An island described as a heaven.
Malaysia possesses the special feature to have two monsoon periods. When this one stops on the west coast, it moves towards the east side. I'm sorry not to give the lie to weather forecasts which are similar for decades not to say centuries and foresee the rain in this part of the world in September! I won't see the sun throughout my short sojourn on the island. I can't unfortunately make do with diving since the underwater visibility is disastrous. This assessment will be the main reason of my early departure; I will try my luck on the islands of the east coast.
The next day of my arrival, I rent a scooter and set out on a trip around the island. Its corners are empty of tourists and its lovely beaches desperately dark. The sun doesn't definitely break through this thick layer of inhospitable clouds. I thread my way inland, its undulating relief is covered by a lush vegetation. A cable-car propels me at the top of one of these peaks to enjoy the view. A little bit further, a waterfall makes its way down the hill. This scooter ride invigorates me. Despite the dull colours of the landscapes and the water, I like this feeling of freedom in such an island and wandering about the beaches as a castaway. So, even during the monsoon, it's worth the trip.

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