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Sunday 3 August 2008

too short sojourn at Tsitsikamma

the trip nearly ends and despite all the gorgeous landscapes we saw for these almost 2 months, the insatiable desire to want more, to go and meet unknown lands is still itching. And during this African escapade, one of the elements we involuntarily disregarded was the hiking. Essential component to live at the pace of the nature and the people we meet on the way and we call out to share a slice of life.
The otter trail in the Tsitsikamma national park- a 5-day coastal trek – in some way gives us a few regrets. We only walk 3 hours on this track and feel the urge to go more ahead. In the ocean, down below, a colony of dolphins play with the shapely waves. Rare appearances of humpback whales force the stop ; we admire their mighty jets of water which split the surface. They go back and forth with caring little about the onlookers sitting on the rocks. Onlookers we'll remain until we're back at the car park.

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After the coastal landscapes, we head for the Bloukrans bridge. An ordinary bridge thousands of vehicles take every day. But underneath the road activity, between 2 blocks of reinforced concrete, the bridge has its hour of glory. A world title at stake, the one of highest bungy jump in the world. 216 m of pure adrenalin.
The approach, with the sensation to have the feet in space, depicts the background. Then we arrive on a large concreted platform. Guardrails surround all the area except in one place... Shortcut to join the bottom of the valley. The wait seems interminable and somehow stressful looking at the face of the other harness-equipped mad people. That's my turn. The staff kits me out and put me at the edge of the parapet, with the toes beyond. It's high... Very high. Masochistic feeling of paying too much to be in this awkward position. The arms held-out, short of breath and the look towards the horizon. I throw myself. The drop seems endless, maximum rush of adrenalin. A few unique seconds of indescribable joy.

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Thursday 31 July 2008

trekking in Lesotho

Since we came back in South Africa, our route mainly criss-crossed the Kwazulu-Natal province. This area, the Zulus are native from, collects inestimable underwater and inland jewels. To complete our Zululand panorama, we leave the coast to the Drakensberg heights, a mountain chain overlapping the Lesotho border. A country entirely encircled by South Africa. The Sani Pass in the south part sounds good. We drive to meet it but for the occasion we leave our car downhill and hop on a more suitable 4x4 vehicle. The hairpin bends draw a track which zigzags upwards the valley. The proeminent rocks dot the road. The car swings. 40 minutes to cover 8 kilometers. The Lesotho border closes the ascent. A barren land swept by a wind which lashes our faces.
We begin our short hike up to the Hogson peak. A 360-view promontory. At the foot of the hill, the track which splits the valley up to the Sani Pass, all around the desolate and serrated rock of the Drakensberg. Plain, massive and motionless. We feel far from the profusion of colours, the vivacity and delicacy of the coral reef we had as background a few days before. Thus, we can sum up the ends of Kwazulu-Natal. One day sunbathing close to the ocean and the next one wrapping up warmly to struggle against the cold of the mountain.

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Tuesday 29 July 2008

surrounded by ragged-tooth sharks

We thought our submarines emotions were worn-out, that we experienced everything during our Sodwana Bay stay, a few days before. We believed it was necessary to have a change of air before dipping again the head into the water. Live a little bit with the memories and marvel at new horizons, leave the blue of the ocean for the rock of the mountain or the ochre of the savannah. We were wrong.
that takes place at Umkomass. Off this submarine-activities-oriented village, the Aliwal shoal reef. First appointment at « cathedral », a grotto whose roof collapsed and opened a natural light shaft. An azure cone which lights the most beautiful submarine sequence I've seen so far. The knees on the sandy bottom, the elbows leant on a rock. 25m deep, time isn't important any longer so much the instant is unfathomable. Shadows swirl around a marine-hued watercolour. Familiar silhouettes, so appalling and so appealing. The danger suddenly becomes insignificant. Some shapes approach, exposing their predator eyes and ill-fitted teeth.
meeting with a ragged-tooth shark.
its partners carry on wheeling, twirling. 50, 80 or 100, the figure doesn't much matter. The noise of my regulator interrupts the world of the silence and the stealth glide of these sumptuous creatures. I I soar, nitrogen- and drug-addicted, intoxicated by this fleeting heaven. However, we must take off this stone and slowly go up along the reef. My eyes don't want to look away any more. The spirit still drifts in front of the cave to continue the dream. In a continuous loop, I play again the short video stolen from the aquatic world and I plunge back into the picture of « cathedral ». I shiver again... I feel like going back so much...


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We put the head into the water again for a less-fierce and more-colourful dive. The spirit still clung to the inhabitants of « cathedral ».

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To cease associating the South-African East coast with the coral reef, we dive on the Produce wreck. Crumpled metal and concretion-covered pipes define the outlines of this old ship that is lying down, 30 meters deep. A great wreck where the natives are called Brindle bass, a grouper which can weigh 400+ kilos. In the dark corners of the superstructures, we observe some motionless specimens. We go a little bit too near and the imposing mass gets moving. Close harmony with the wonderful environment of Aliwal Shoal. And for those who haven't been tempted or convinced by the submarine universe, a last series of snapshots which match these words.

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