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Thursday 15 November 2007

Emerald paradise on the Milford Sound track

It's soon in the small pier of Te Anau Downs, little life troubles the place. A boat tied to the wooden wharf waits for the group of the day who goes to begin the Milford Sound track. Only 40 people daily start and we must book between 2 and 6 months before to be in the group. Fortunately my brother Christophe thought about it. :-)
After half an hour on the lake, we get off the boat at Glade Wharf. A mere wooden pontoon. Each one of us dip his shoes into a chlorine liquid in order not to soil the earth of the park. The main threat is called Didymo, an out-of-control seaweed that invades lakes and rivers bed and stifle every kind of life. A picture in front of the entrance sign and we start this first day of trekking, a one-hour-and-a-half short stage. We slowly slide in this gree heaven. Swingbridge, walk in forest, river and stagnant waters. There's a good smell of undergowth's humus, a heavy moss carpets branches and trunks. No more things needed to open our hikers' appetite.
We arrive at the first hut, the Clinton Hut, where we make the group's acquaintance. A heterogeneous and international group.
Waiting impatiently for tomorrow.

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7h, the dorm wakes up. We pull on a pair of trousers, we buckle up the backpack to start again, to go and get lost in the emerald maze. The omnipresent moss clings to the rocks and to the earth, hangs from the upper branches of the scrubs. A green corridor breaks through the lush forest as a triumphant welcome to a small colony of lucky people. On the river banks, knotty vegetation-incrusted trunks draw a multicoloured jigsaw. The most beautiful city, monuments of the human genius, will never scratch the eternal beauty of the nature. Rotorua was a world of sulphur, arsenic and volcanic activity, Milford Sound Track is a world of harmony, greenery, land of expression for the nature which dresses up for our flying visit. Within this chromatic kaleidoscope, we are only a few free electrons revolving around the twists and turns of a place where fauna and flora live in symbiosis.
Second relaxing night at the Mintaro Hut.

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3rd day - we leave the corridor drilled through the impenetrable undergrowth to reach the top of a hill. The green carpet suddenly falls down to a desolate scenery, a rocky wave sprinkled with snowy patches. A dark and shiny patchwork streaked by a zigzag path. The effort is rewarded at the Mackinnon Pass. An emerald valley is behind us and another one reveals itself downstream. The mountain parrots, the Keas are there. They savour the strips of our backpacks and learn how to open them in order to nose around, looking for food. The cold lashes and dashes us up to start the descent. Flat and slippery stones, gleamed by a thin layer of spring water, strew the course. As for the first valley, the transition is brutal and the moss-wrapped knotty branches draw a triumphant entrance. We walk along a stream which chose the waterfall as means of expression. A leitmotiv that fascinates us. In our heads, musical notes resonate and and drive us intoxicated. The "water" element establishes itself in this section and blossoms into the powerful Sutherland waterfall that gushes down from the 580-meter-overhead cliff. A bath of sprays. A shower of visual and ringing feelings.
A last hour of walking to reach the Dumpling Hut. Last night on this magical path a poetess of the early century described as the finest trek in the world. And the qualifier never became tarnished.

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Last day of trekking after a short night. The bodies are tired for some of us. And the walls of the dorm trembled due to the snores of the most agitated sleepers.
Backpack on the shoulders, our eyes keep on analysing the colours, our nostrils examine the olfactory surroundings and our ears make the vigilance pay attention to the slightest branch creaking. Each new step gets us nearer to the Sandfly Point. Bye-bye pristine waterfalls, twisted shrubs, silky mosses and smooth path.
Because there are terrestrial heavens which can only be visited on foot. Because there are still chunks of lands where the trees grow up without fearing the axe. Some droplets, a few chips of wood, a little bit of moss and Mother Earth will make you a fabulous garden.

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In the beginning of the afternoon, we hop on a boat that moves us away from the path to lead us to the Milford Sound village. The wharves come out into a large hall like a Parisian train station. We meet again the flocks of tourists who come here to enjoy the ladscapes of the Milford Sound. We follow them and sit down on board in one of the big boats which lean against the quays. The cruise makes us discover the mouth of the fjord. A myriad of narrow waterfalls flow down the cliffs. Immense jagged-outlined cliffs. On the banks, we look for the crested penguins, a kind of rastafarian penguins with yellow and long eyebrows which gesticulate on the rocks after a fishing session into the waters of the fjord.
This cruise finishes an unforgetable time of our New Zealand adventure. A heap of photos, a mixture of feelings, a set of bewildering landscapes and such a few words to describe them...

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Sunday 4 November 2007

In another world at Rotorua

In the traveller's life, the transition stages are numerous, a few moments of doubt are quickly driven away by times of intense emotions that remind us how privileged we are to be here. I never wondered before what would be the sensation to walk in another world. Now, I know.
Our first contact with this other planet goes through Te Puia. One of the 5 places in the world where it's possible to see natural geysers (the others are located in Iceland, in Kamtchaka (Russia), in the Yosemite park (USA) and in El Tatio (Chile)). The limestone plateau is swollen with 2 bulges. Chimneys that the subterranean pressure can be released through. But sometimes, as it's the case here, the outlet of the gases comes with a gush of water. The 10-meter-high main geyser gets all the looks and surrounds itself with steam. A natural wonder that regularly gushes out from the ground.

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The next day, we head for the thermal wonder of Wai-o-Tapu. A brief stop at the geyser that precisely triggers at 10h15 every day. How is it possible ? Actually, the geyser doesn't have a natural activation and the park's employee dips a piece of soap into the chimney and starts the geyser. Everybody is quietly sitting and looks at the show, dumbstruck.

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We go back to the Wai-o-Tapu park. The mixing of an important subterranean activity and a sustained acidic action gives an eerie atmosphere to this part of the world. Gaseous fumes which put up science-fiction scenery of a remote planet. The bowels of the earth spit its venom out, as a warning. And despite the hostility of the different suppurating injuries of the earth, that nature is weirdly beautiful. The colours perfectly match, the guttural sonorities of the silica mouths are diabolically appealing and the smoky evaporations smoothly wrap anybody that approaches it.
Here we are in this dangerously attractive world we swallow through all our senses. This kind of world we can't or don't want to leave. Intoxicated and pleased with that.
To understand the profusion of colours that emanates from the ground, a glossary gives the link between the colour and the chemical element. So, yellow corresponds to the sulphur, orange points out traces of antimony, white is similar to the silica, dark red is reserved for ferrous oxide, black expresses the presence of graphite or a carbon/sulphur mixture, purple symbolizes the manganese and light green shows the arsenic, and greener it is, more arsenic there is!
Listing all these chemical elements, we understand the area of Wai-o-Tapu concentrates a peculiar and inhospitable geothermal activity. Here, the different spots are calling the devil's house, the sulphur grottoe, the thunder crater, the devil's bath or the hell crater.
A few grottoes let a blackish liquid get out ; on the ground, small puddles of seething sulphur, the orange-edged champagne pool throws up a large steam cloud which, according to the wind, surrounds you and let you puzzled about the breathed residues.
I stop talking, let's go for the colours and smokes fireworks, let you delight in the eerie landscapes of Wai-o-Tapu.

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The highlight of the show : champagne's pool.

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Monday 15 October 2007

Sunrise feelings over the Taj Mahal

The awakening of the Taj Mahal belongs to those who get up early. We get through a gigantic entrance and the first glimmers of the dawn unveil the outline of the mausoleum. A long shimmering pond stretches out up to the white tomb.
Fascinating collection of stones and marble blocks that hypnotizes me a little bit more for each new step.
Crazy construction of a mad king, mad in love with his wife.
Symbol of the absolute love and the dementia which can upset the heart of an inconsolable man.
The rectangular gardens and pools contrast to the undulating lines of the domes. Overdose of harmony in this perfectly symmetrical complex where the death tarnished a endless love in no way.
The History is cruel and a tragic fate will wait for the builder of the white mausoleum. Dethroned king, Shah Jahan will be imprisonned. In his cell, a tiny window as only mate. A mere window through where he could contemplate the building of his life dedicated to his defunct wife.
A lot of human buildings impress due to their gigantic proportions, their sizes challenging the physics laws but very few make shake the heart and vibrate the very inside. The Taj Mahal belongs to that world. We can walk around several times and nothing will soothe the inner fire and the swirl of sensations that swamp you. I sit down to gather my emotions. The mausoleum bewitches its residents with a kind aura, erodes the sharpest spirits and awakens the gentlest hearts.
I tread a last time around the white mausoleum, bewildered by these same feelings which submerged me a few hours before, as from the first seconds I got in the enclosure of the Taj Mahal. I leave with the illusion of living a dream. A dream in which I stepped on a marble-paving path. A dream in which I stopped leaning with my back on a wall, sheltered by an alcove. On the wall of a palace smooth as the silk.

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With these angelic radiant-white pictures, our Indian trip ends. We simply picked at a few crumbs of this country full with culture and life. Completely dishonest the one who, in one month, boasts of visiting India. This short interlude opened a gap in our spirits, a crack we'll have to fill in coming again. To discover other facets, other landscapes and other people of the Indian subcontinent. And above all to enjoy new adventures that only India can bring.

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