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Sunday 26 August 2007

Back onto the Great Wall

We can't leave China without seeing and talking again about its symbol. France has the Eiffel tower and China has the Great Wall. The day before yesterday and with the family, I went back hiking from Jinshanling to Simatai. superb views in a clement weather and intact emotions.

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Today, let's give way to the secret wall. One of these several parts, impossible to describe in a travel guidebook, and which delight some Chinese people sensing the good opportunity to make money. An alternative to escape from the tourists who swarm into the rebuilt sections of the Beijing-surrounding Great Wall. A short walk goes through the wood and ends at the bottom of the wall.
This enigmatic blend between an ancient human building and the vegetation which takes back the bit of land that formerly belonged to it. We feel the sensations of these treasure hunters and other archaeologists of the last centuries, crazy enough to leave the comfort of the city, guided by the obsessive quest of new jewels and unknown lands. We marvel like these intrepid pioneers. The steep hill sides would have formed a natural fence but topping its ridge with this wall, man showed his intention to tame the nature, to show his superiority over it. For a period. Because time teaches us without a meticulous maintenance, the nature swallows everything, destroys this fabulous rampart and devours the stone.
The so dreaded invasion didn't come from the humans but from the earth. Over the years, the roots pushed the rock away, infiltrated between the paving stone to finally dissociated and buried them. The fruits of the nature creep onto the rock and we contemplate this struggle that vanishes in a sumptuous intertwining of colors and forms.

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Friday 10 August 2007

The stone colossuses of the Wulingyuan

Absolutely unknown by the Western tour operators, the jagged massif of the Wulingyuan is certainly one of the most beautiful in China. Personnaly, it's the one I like the best. With great pleasure, I come back to this place with my family.
We arrive in Zhangjiajie city by the nighttrain and a local travel agent drives us to Zhangjiajie village, one hour from here. This village is located near the south entrance of the Wulingyuan national park and is still the best spot to begin the stroll and to rest after a day spending in the park. We buy a 2-day valid ticket and in order to avoid the magnetic cards trafficking, the entrance turnstiles are equipped with fingerprints readers. Nothing to forget about the exorbitant price of the ticket: 245 yuans (24,5 €) ! 8 € more than 2 years ago!
We go through the entrance and on the left side, monkeys families expect we throw some sweets.

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200m after the entrance, a map shows the different paths which ornate the park. We turn right, cross a bridge and walk forward on a paving stone trail that runs away into a thick nature. A few games (short hurdles and stone mushrooms) decorate the way.

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Approaching the summit, our steps slow down then stop at a breathtaking viewpoint. The ascension inside the undergrowth didn't portend such a splendour while our eyes open up in front of this nature-bequeathed marvel. Balustrade-leant elbows, our eyes scan the scene. Stone colossuses face us. The Gods relax playing a game on this giant chess board. These natural obelisks, tall as the Eiffel tower for some of them, harmoniously flaked and gorgeously topped by a tuft of pine trees beautifully vie with themselves.

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A mist halo intensifies the mysticism of the place. Several viewpoints were built along the way; but none of them gives us a rational explanation of this granite columns field. Our spirit can't however analyse any more. He's overwhelmed by this flood of light and splendour bringing by our eyes.
Several hours went by, the ascension efforts are completely forgotten. We walk down to the valley to sail among the towers. Strips of green forests cling to the spurs of the stony titans, attempt a vain ascension to its steep walls and bump into its breathtaking verticality. Among the columns, wayfaring ants move about. We wander about into these wildly big petrified fields.

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The eyes glued skyward, we go back to the park entrance.

The next day, we go again through the park to reach a lift hanged on one of these granite obelisks wall. A last fill-up of feelings before leaving the park.

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In the evening I take Armelle to the airport. She got promoted up to backpacker apprentice. The rhythm was a little bit sustained and I was happy to share a part of my trip with her. And she followed without turning a hair.
A sample of the traveller life I have enjoyed for 2 months.

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