A white 4x4, Cashmiri guide and driver, an Australian pictures hunter who wanders about the world for 30 years, a young Swedish girl who has courageously chosen India as her first country, a Canadian lumberjack, untiring traveler, and a little French guy that decided to go round the world 3 months ago. An eclectic team and a 10-day communal life in the close future.
We leave Shimla for a long journey by jeep. The discussion starts in the close space of the vehicle. We learn from each other.
The cultures diversity enriches.
The winding road raises into a nascent valley. The misty veil glides onto the hills and wraps the silent nature up. We stop for a stroll in the forest marked out by a Hindu temple at the top. No breathtaking view, nasty clouds weaves a thick fence. Only just a bench to get our breath back and share a chocolate bar.
We start again. The chats carries on. Laughs. Travel experiences. Pieces of advice on next destinations. The frustrating feeling of an unknown chunk in the world. We bring it to mind, we use a few superlatives, we make dream the audience, and this place, utterly absent in my mind, adds up to the list of things to see. More we travel, more places to visit. An endless wheel, traveling makes and unmakes you. On the bumpy Indian roads, we deal with the bears and the salmon fishing into the rivers of Alaska. The visit of the Hanuman temple drags us out of the jeep. A Disneyland-like statue of the monkey-god invites vehicles to stop and spend some moments in silence.
We arrive in Sarahan. The darkness-blackened roofs of the temple announce a great visit for tomorrow morning. We sit down at a small restaurant. The cracked paint, canteen tables, bashed-in saucepan. A Nepali family runs the restaurant and in this only 10-m² room, the comfort of a familial meal, we feel at home.
Hectic awakening. No time to linger, we start tracking the large spiders which invaded the room, a bucket and a bowl as weapons. Then, we take a savoury breakfast and we relate our morning feats.
We leave to visit the temple. Exquisite wood-carved pediments, a hindu ceremony and a carmine tikka on the forehead.
We keep on visiting around the village and it's time to go. On the flank of the road, a cow struggles with a plastic box clung to its head.
The valley subsides. The breathtaking road, carved into the cliff at several hundreds meters high from the ground livens up when multicoloured trucks meet. Wing mirrors bang together. Driving back is sometimes the only solution and the jeep waits close to the void. It goes again on the close turns, pushing down the horn to warn the other vehicles. A dangerously high road that gives thrills to the passengers sitting along the precipice.
A valley with Himalayan dimensions.
The roads bleed the hill white that landslides wreck. Months of works to rebuild the missing parts. An unsuspected activity livens our aerial road when a herd of sheep makes a traffic jam or when a baba sadhu gives candies to the tired drivers and passengers.
We spend 2 nights in Sangla. A wooden temple overlooks the village. We must take off the shoes, don a hat and fasten a belt to get in the old monument.
Clumsy alleyways, purple, azure orchards and flower beds.
The apple trees are weighed down with the red fruits. In the depths of the village, houses with bare or whitewashed harbour a few Tibetan Buddhist souls in exile.
The visit of Sangla is interrupted by an excursion to the village of Chitkul, last village before the Tibetan border. At the wintertime, snowfalls may cut the access to the village. Then, this one lives in autarky, forgotten by the faraway civilization. Biting cold, far from the blazing sun of the Delhi basin.
Tomato omlette, toats with tasteless jam and black tea. En route to Kalpa. Rucksacks piled up in the back of the car, some handlings to get out of the narrow path of the guesthouse, we leave again. The asphalted strip starts again its twirling danse into the wounded cliff while the river below seems to be a mere stream. A dizzy spell strikes me as I size up the turquoise-blue ribbon down the valley. The ballet of the adorned trucks terrifies us, each turn is a trial. We chat to forget the void. A few stops to take photos.
The "Kalpa" sign announces the end of the stage. Here, the marijuana grows like the weed. And the apple trees bend with the weight of their loads. In the distance, the headland of the Kinnaur Kailash makes some bashful appearances through the clouds. In good weather, it lights up with 7 seven different colors throughout the day. Kalpa, another village clung to the slopes of a hill which lives difficult moments when the wind sweeps over the area.
A new day, the road keeps on raising. Dry nature, inhospitable nature. Bushes gush out here and there. The human paw inlaid some ramshackle and insignificant buildings in the earthy titan. The road zigzags on the steep slopes and vanishes at the entrance of Nako. Below the hills, a tiny lake soaks up a few souls who gathered to struggle better. The Himalayan scenery as the only comfort of this hard life. For us, we gorge ourselves on these impressions, these smiles, these wind-stroked stones, these fringes-worn flags fluttering at the top of a mound, these cubic and uneven houses. Where is the madness of the Indian cities ? The horns of the rickshaws and the crawling poverty on the pavements ? Hard to believe we'll still in India. However, that's this diversity which attracts flocks of tourists, far from the hackneyed routes. A simple journey by train and the ecstasy of a bit of greenery clears away the nervous breakdown and the unease of a seething town. We feel well here.
RTW-India
Sunday 23 September 2007
Perched on the Kinnaur valley
By dorian on Sunday 23 September 2007, 17:25
Tuesday 18 September 2007
The mountain train towards Shimla
By dorian on Tuesday 18 September 2007, 19:08
A first train drops us off at Kalka before hopping on the Himalaya Queen, a mountain train that rolls at 20 km/h and goes through 103 tunnels ; 5 hours to reach Shimla. A bequest from the former British occupier. A journey through the forest which cheers us up after this first hours spent in the Indian capital city.
Shimla is a holidays destination for the honeymooners and rich Indians. The town seems to be built on a landslide. Steep stairs connect the thoroughfares of the city. The houses don the British colonial architecture of the 19th century. Hanging from the electric wires, climbing gutters or scaning around from the rooftops, colonies of monkeys invade the town.
The Jakhu temple at the top of the town is dedicated to Hanuman, the monkey God. And its associates swarm around the temple. Their aggression keeps us at a distance.
We walk down to the pedestrian way of the Mall where we book a 10-day trip combining jeep + trek in the east of the Himachal Pradesh. We didn't really decided our route yet but the desire to go out of Delhi. We entrust a part of our trip to this small travel agency. No precise information about the journey, and no desire to know more for today. From tomorrow onwards, the pleasure of the discovery. The genuine one.
Sunday 16 September 2007
First steps in Delhi
By dorian on Sunday 16 September 2007, 19:02
I leave Nepal to embark on the Indian adventure. Only 15 days spent in this magical country, but the departure is heartrending. Flight from Kathmandu to Delhi. I experience a dual feeling as I get off the plane. An overwhelming desire to discover this country-continent and a deep reluctance fed by the numerous divergent opinions I gleaned so far. India, we love or we hate but we can't stay indifferent. I'll know more in one month.
Religiously or culturally rich, the country is a patchwork of imposing monuments, dynamic and warm-hearted people nodding the head to give their agreement and wonderful landscapes. "Incredible India" the billboards hammer out. I don't know where to start the trip from : following the Ganges eastward to reach the sacred city of Varanasi and perhaps extend to Calcutta and the Sikkim state ; heading northward for a bit of coolness at the foothills of the Himalaya and dipping into the buddhist fervour in Dharamsala, dalai lama's resting place ; going by the jewels of the Rajasthan westward and getting to the Punjab, country of the sikhs or, drifting southward to finish on a heavenly beach next to Goa, the former Portuguese protectorate.
The heavy religious differences keep the look on. The sikhs' turbans frequent the muslim djellabahs, the shaved-headed Buddhist monks and the Hindu tikkas while jainists dust a bench before sitting. As I get out the airport shuttle-bus, the night has fallen. I meet a German that leads me to a cosy guesthouse in the Paharganj district. En route, the first pictures of poverty and dirtiness. Lots of beggars, invalids and disabled persons strew the streets without having another place to sleep. Pestilential smells shake me. Rats dig the garbage areas and the horns of the rickshaws get through the traffic jam. The German relates me his ending trip in India when I'm in a hurry my Canadian friend arrives because 2 are not too much to cheer up one another.
More than 2 years we haven't seen at each other, and Alain shares this desire and this reluctance to discover India. We walk to visit the red fort I hardly appreciate. I didn't digest my first meal in India...
We decide to leave Delhi by the morning train to Shimla, in the northeastern Himachal Pradesh state. A necessary exile. Searching for a bit of coolness and serenity, a more rural India. Our spirit isn't enough well-prepared to accept the contrasts of Delhi despite the hospitality and the kindness of the Indians.
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