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Saturday 23 August 2008

3 pearls in the Indian ocean

3 jewels in a turquoise setting, a well-deserved term to describe Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno et Gili Air. But we almost never set foot on this shangri-la. Although there is an express shuttle between Bali and the biggest of the 3 islands – Gili Trawangan –, we opted for the cheap solution taking the ferry. And to complicate things, we all handle by ourselves: ferry from Padang Bay, chaotic arrival in the Mafia-like harbour of Lembar where arranging a road transport to the Bengsal pier – starting point towards the Gili islands – will go with a great dose of irritation. The deserved arrival in Bengsal nearly sounds the end of the expedition; only 45 minutes left by boat and we finally land in Trawangan. But trouble is not finished yet. To end this unpleasant day, we spend one hour looking for an accommodation to finally find a room 3 times more expensive than in Bali for a lower quality. Can't wait for tomorrow to forget all of that!
The night erases the yesterday inconvenience, we realize the magic of this island. A greenery disc wholly encircled by a blond-sand ring. And an ever-more-incredible wealth hides a few meters away from the shore: an unforgettable coral reef.

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We spend the main part of the day underwater. Only equipped with a mask and a snorkel, we let ourselves drift by the current. And each dive displays its share of miraculous visual catches. Although we change island or country, the colourful inhabitants of the Indian Ocean carry on their captivating submarine waltz. But today, an heroine outshines the other reef dwellers. The green turtle robs the limelight from the unicorn- and butterfly-fish. It bestows a constant show. We follow each turtle which flies in the expanse of water. A slow and mind-blowing dance. Swimming beyond the time for some terrestrial mammals who appreciate the joys of another element. Our companion flies away into the blurred blue of the ocean depths. Our memory extends this smooth and slow flight.
Gili is one of the numerous Indonesian jewels, because Indonesia is packed with islands watered by turquoise water and stuffed with fantastic creatures. So many paradises for neophyte or advanced divers. As for me, I fill in my schedule for some future underwater odysseys.

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Tuesday 19 August 2008

the breathtaking wreck of the Libery

The steep slopes of the mount Batur push us away towards the east of the island. Our way stops when the ocean starts, somewhere not far from Amen, in the small hamlet of Jemeluk. The tourist development broke through the calmness of the fishermen villages which stretch out along the coast. Because of a ship: the Liberty that ran aground at less than 50 meters from the pebble beach of Tulamben. An artificial reef that coral fauna and flora quickly adopt for a breathtaking result. Red gorgons and fire corals proudly dance on the shapeless metallic remnants. Sometimes tinsel-decorated Christmas tree and sometimes heap of life-shining ferrous remains. Some flipper-kicks further, a diffuse light spreads through the gaping holes of the ship. We swim into what the lower deck formerly was. Wide-eyed, we get each drop of life. Endless navigation between the imposing size of the smashed-up metal sheets and the delicate and chiseled details of the reef life.
My underwater wonder is so great I succeed in convincing my family to stay an extra day and dip into the big blue. Introduction to scuba diving into the swimming pool of the hotel then departure for the wreck. Most of them feel the fear of the unknown mixed with a ferocious urge of swimming with the inhabitants of the world of silence. Each one will keep in mind an indelible memory of what was their first dive. And even those for who it's not their first bathing with bottles, the enthusiasm is the same. Maravilloso ! Increible ! Will be the two first words which will say Spanish partner immediately getting out of the water.

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Saturday 16 August 2008

Rice fields, temples and coconut palms


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We leave our gilded life at the seaside to look at a traditional Balinese performance «the Barong's dance ». A show that depicts the struggle between good and evil, Barong against Rangda. A jumble of sequined costumes, mythical monsters and persuasive actors surrounded by ancestral believes ; all of that spellbound by a light music. At the end of the day, we get to the built-on-the-cliff Tanah Lot temple. A sunset we usually see on the postcards of the souvenir shops. The sky wraps up with glowing hues and the temple stands out like shadow puppet. The cameras patter while the night closes the sight. On the way back, a large bat rests beside a souvenir stall when another tourist comes to observe the weird animal. Our eyes meet ; deep, light-coloured eyes that look familiar to me. My attention suddenly and exclusively focuses on this unknown person. Shaven head, American accent, surfer-looking. I get it. My mind becomes clearer. Less than one meter away, only separated by a strange animal and completely relaxed, he's Kelly Slater, the living legend of the modern surfing and 8-time world champion. My friend Jo will go to shake his hand and await confirmation. The surfing world cup took place in Bali, 15 days before, hence his presence. 2 days after starting the surfing, we meet the greatest star of this sport. Unforgettable! The destiny perhaps...

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full of feelings, we head for Ubud, in the center of Bali. We're going to track down the bats in case of the surfing legend appears again.
Beside its paradisiac beaches, Bali is the home of a luxuriant vegetation. The laid back town of Ubud is a good land base to go and meet it. Scattered banana trees stand out in the paddy fields where an ingenious irrigation system keeps each plot of land under a shimmering sheet of water. Coconut palms border the path and give an exotic shade to the scenery.

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In the middle of the village, we visit the monkeys of the eponymous forest. Sometimes playful, sometimes mischievous, sometimes aggressive, they mark out their territory in this forest. As soon as we get in, it's swarming with these small beings as agile standing as on all four. They come to pick up a banana in the hand of a tourist before climbing a tree to shelter the meagre amassed haul.

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The activities and sites to see are numerous around Ubud, we link a set of temples and religious buildings. Abandoned or still heavily pious, all these places are first-hand account of Balinese architecture, style and way of life. A peculiar Indonesian island since on top of being the most touristy, it's the only one predominantly Hindu.
We pass from a temple to another whose tortuous name have been crossing-out in my memory by too much visual, resounding and spiritual information my senses received. The architecture of those buildings will nevertheless remain engraved in our minds and memory cards as a souvenir or a happy route in the middle of Bali.

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Our round of the temples ends upon a mythical mountain, venerated by the Balinese, the mount Batur. Because the religious aura and fervour don't die when the gates of the temples close.

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