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Saturday 23 August 2008

3 pearls in the Indian ocean

3 jewels in a turquoise setting, a well-deserved term to describe Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno et Gili Air. But we almost never set foot on this shangri-la. Although there is an express shuttle between Bali and the biggest of the 3 islands – Gili Trawangan –, we opted for the cheap solution taking the ferry. And to complicate things, we all handle by ourselves: ferry from Padang Bay, chaotic arrival in the Mafia-like harbour of Lembar where arranging a road transport to the Bengsal pier – starting point towards the Gili islands – will go with a great dose of irritation. The deserved arrival in Bengsal nearly sounds the end of the expedition; only 45 minutes left by boat and we finally land in Trawangan. But trouble is not finished yet. To end this unpleasant day, we spend one hour looking for an accommodation to finally find a room 3 times more expensive than in Bali for a lower quality. Can't wait for tomorrow to forget all of that!
The night erases the yesterday inconvenience, we realize the magic of this island. A greenery disc wholly encircled by a blond-sand ring. And an ever-more-incredible wealth hides a few meters away from the shore: an unforgettable coral reef.

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We spend the main part of the day underwater. Only equipped with a mask and a snorkel, we let ourselves drift by the current. And each dive displays its share of miraculous visual catches. Although we change island or country, the colourful inhabitants of the Indian Ocean carry on their captivating submarine waltz. But today, an heroine outshines the other reef dwellers. The green turtle robs the limelight from the unicorn- and butterfly-fish. It bestows a constant show. We follow each turtle which flies in the expanse of water. A slow and mind-blowing dance. Swimming beyond the time for some terrestrial mammals who appreciate the joys of another element. Our companion flies away into the blurred blue of the ocean depths. Our memory extends this smooth and slow flight.
Gili is one of the numerous Indonesian jewels, because Indonesia is packed with islands watered by turquoise water and stuffed with fantastic creatures. So many paradises for neophyte or advanced divers. As for me, I fill in my schedule for some future underwater odysseys.

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Tuesday 28 August 2007

Transition in Hong Kong

It's time to assess this beautiful loop in China. A wonderful trip I can't summarize in a few words. Not everything was easy during this trip and some topics leave us wondering less than one year before the Olympic Games. The tourist who wishes to travel on his own will bump into several problems. The language barrier is the main one. At the restaurant, at the hotel or to move around despite the very good rail and road networks. Except the main cities and touristy spots, it's very hard to find someone who speaks the Shakespeare's language. I also point out : don't expect to find English signs in the bus or train stations. Another misunderstanding must be credited to some hotels which don't accept foreigners. Another difficulty turns out to be the cash withdrawal in all the cities but Shanghai, Beijing and the touristy spots. The ATM don't accept international credit cards (except for the Bank of China, although not always). And the counter clerks will stay puzzled while they stare at your card.
On the other hand, the remote hinterlands offer some genuine Chinese lures and a unique opportunity to live the country in its "original version". Learning basic Chinese and speaking in a so different language brings as much pleasure as discovering the natural gems of the country, its sacred mountains, the temples and its traditions. And these small worries look insignificant in comparison with the whirlpool of sensations the country brings.
Leaving Beijing, I have a change of scenery and head towards Nepal. A welcome change after one month spent with my family in the Mao's country. A part of the trip ends and a new one remains to be written onto the Himalayan heights. The transition goes off smoothly since my connection flight in Hong Kong leaves me enough time to visit the former British colony. The United Kingdom handed over the control of the protectorate to the Chinese government, 10 years ago. From this rich past and from its thriving present converges a subtle blend of Londoner trams, American fast-foods and Asian souls. In fact, Hong Kong is an island and a small part of the Hong Kong province that enjoys a relative autonomy. Chinese visa is not necessary to come here. Opposite the island, about a few hundreds meter away, there's the Kowloon district we can reach by boat or by metro. The town is definitely cosmopolitan, more in term of represented nationalities than type of workers, mainly tuxedo-clad businessmen.
The northern part of the Hong Kong island harbours a concentration of the tallest towers in the world. Down the towers, roads looks like tiny alleyways in comparison with giant-size skyscrapers. My urban walk is short but this city deserves to be known and remains a urban paradise for a lot of people wishing a renew in their professional career.

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I take again the shuttle train and head for the airport before taking a plane to Delhi, then a new connection flight to Kathmandu after sleeping several hours at the transit area of the Delhi airport.

Friday 17 August 2007

Poetic inspiration on the yellow mountains

17 hours by train from Guilin to Tunxi, beside the yellow mountains. We only have 3 berth tickets and we thought we could travel together inside the sleeping car. But the inspectors watch out at the entrance of the restaurant car, this one makes the link between the sleeping cars and the normal carriages. And inspectors prevent everybody from going from a kind of carriage to another one. We drop our idea. One of us will travel into a normal carriage trying to find a seat among the crowd and Pierre, the unlucky one, will do it.
We arrive at 5 am and take the station nearest hotel. Outside, minivans commute from the city to the park entrance of the yellow mountains, 1h30 from here. A lot of Chinese tourists arrive by train and directly carry on with the coach journey. When the last seat is engaged, the driver moves off.
At the park entrance, buses leave to reach the both ways (east or west) that lead to the top. Each of them has a cable car which allows to skip the morning and exhausting stairs stage. We opt for the west trail and for going up by cable car despite the impressive 3-hour wait. The yellow mountains massif is the most famous and the most visited in China and we experience that among the turnstile-accumulated crowd. Around 12 o'clock, we take off towards the summits of the massif.
The poets in the pursuit of their lost muse or the painters harnessing the impressions of the secret alchemy between the lifeless rock and pine trees draw their inspiration from these mountains and then spread their works of art throughtout China. At some time of the year, a stratus bed bathes the peaks and complements the symphony of the massif.

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The staircases pace the place up and go towards the most majestic peaks. The peculiar shape of the pine trees and their tiered branches pop out and gush out from the rocky heaps. The opposition between the round and smooth lines of the stone and the knotty branches of the trees draw the notes of a symphony. Our eyes mark the rhythm and the cameras immortalize a few great moments. I haven't taken any easel, brushes and gouache tubes but my memory will keep the impressions of this savoury blend of colours.

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Like a good movie, you cannot summarize it, you must see it and live it in. Forget the extraordinary wait for the cable car, Clear away the exhaustion of a whole night spent in a overcrowded train, the yellow mountains don't only raise the senses of painters and poets and bring serenity and happiness to anyone who paces them up.

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