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Saturday 20 September 2008

In the Sydney harbour


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Bye Bye welcoming and intoxicating Asia, I set foot in Australia for a short 2-night stop in the city of Sydney. I put down my bag at the youth hostel and go for a stroll to Darling Harbour which brings together restaurants, bars et tourist attractions such as the Sydney aquarium or the maritime museum. But my look and my steps flee northwards. I'm in a hurry to walk alongside the bank to contemplate two Sydney-symbolizing monuments. On my left, I look up and the metallic frame of the Harbour Brigde overlooks me with all its loftiness. I turn the head on the right and the blowing-up-by-the-wind sail- or shell-shaped domes of the Opera House marvelously marks the end of the bank. I sit down on the steps of the music-dedicated building and chill out, observing the boats that move up and down and distribute their flood of passengers all over the town.
I take my ticket for the other shore. From this side, the view is different. The Opera House harmoniously finishes the disjointed skyline drawn by the skyscrapers of the city. In this hushed-atmosphere district, in the north of Sydney, large residences stretch over. A taste of tranquility, five minutes from the heart of the city. As incredible as it can be, I step on a desert beach in the middle of Sydney. I worm my way in the alleyways of the detached houses towards the Harbour Bridge. The dusk is brewing, the first artificial lights switch on up to cover the town with a sparkling halo. The panorama is still more attractive, the geometric lines fade away into the night to only stand out these luminous impressions. That's lovely a city by night.

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I couldn't leave Sydney without seeing some specimens of the weird and endemic animals which populate the Australian ground and waters. I get to the vivarium where a number of animals are unfortunately shut in. Even if it remains the easiest way to familiarize oneself with those living beings. Koala, platypus, kangaroo, wombat, collared iguana, everything is there. Without forgetting that Australia shelters the most dangerous spider and snake in the world.

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Friday 5 September 2008

the multi-ethnic city of Kuala Lumpur

I land on the malaysian capital without really knowing what can happen here. I'm going to discover a city made of contrasts, between traditions and modernity, between men dressed in three-piece suit rushing in the streets and deep Muslim dominance which gives rhythm to the majority of the people. My stroll starts in the Petaling street, backbone of the Chinatown district where the counterfeited tee-shirts meet the fake perfumes and the handbag copies. Smoke-filled food-packed stands, where we come and eat at anytime, fill in the gaps of the street. A few steps away, I cross the pavement and immerse myself in another culture walking through the little India district, a colourful market where we can buy every kind of flowers or saris. It's not unusual to hear speaking in Chinese, Hindi or English into these bustling streets because the Malaysian society is a melting pot of different waves of immigrations which little by little integrate with the local people. These horizontal-expanding districts stand out against the neo-skyscrapers which popped out of the ground here and there and where long national flags proudly hang on the walls. Breathtaking verticality, synonymous of a fast-thriving country. A lot of people talk about Malaysia 2020, a project started at the beginning of the 70s which plans to deeply change the country within 50 years. The objective is that Malaysia becomes a developed country by the year 2020. But this project, which is an economic and social expansion before all, doesn't develop to the detriment of its roots, religious in particular. Numerous mosques dot throughout the city. And the fervour at the prayer time is really astounding.

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One of highlights of my visit is located at the foot of the Petronas towers of the eponymous oil-company. The symbol of a city and of the whole country. A lot of elements in its building and architecture are linked to Islam, with a pentagonal structure at some places in reference to the 5 pillars of the religion. This monument reaches 452m, a staggering height which kept the title of highest skyscraper in the world for several years before being dethroned by the Taipei tower 101 in Taiwan. It however keeps the world title of highest double structure. A concrete- and iron-made colossal giant which arrays itself in phosphorescent shades when the night comes.

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Half an hour from the capital, I finish my visit of Kuala Lumpur and its surroundings by climbing the 273 steps open onto the Batu caves. A huge cavity that shelters a Hindu temple and attract tourists as well as faithful people.

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Tuesday 12 August 2008

Discovering the surf at Bali

Several hours of flight, quite a long time of waiting, 2 different airlines, I set foot in Denpasar, the lively capital city of Bali. The 4-letter enumeration of this bit of land announces some idyllic holidays on a heavenly island for a lot of people. My family picks me up at the airport with a large smile. Quite 2 months we haven't seen at each other. Everything seems to go by so fast. We negotiate a bemo (local van) to rush to the Legian district. The Legian and Kuta area gathers a great number of tourists and all the relating economy. Succession of hotels, restaurants, travel agencies, craft and surf shops. The urge is too tempting. Several years Jo and I have dreamt of breaking waves, tubes and gliding. Being at one with the ocean. Alone with his board to stroke the element. More than a sport, the surf enthusiasts consider it to be a way of life. Perhaps it will be ours in a few hours after our introductory session. On the beach, every 50 meters, stalls offer boards for rent. Longboard, mini-malibu or thruster, we quickly learn the terms. We book a 2-hour lesson. Private coaching on the beach, our instructor breaks down the moves to stand up. Then, the board wedged under the armpit, we cheerfully walk towards the waves. A set of advice later, a special pleasure-tinted feeling overwhelms me. I keep standing on the board! The road is still hazardous before turning in the giant waves but the joy is definitely here, as an obvious fact.

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But the learning will be still long, very long... Because before being on the front cover of the surf magazines, We entered for the greatest fall competition.

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Armelle and Magali join us and the entire team is gathered for a 15-day Balinese adventure. Loving reunion.
To extend the soft and gilded Kuta life, We go to visit the south of the island. Balangan, Dreamland or Padang-Padang, a coconut-trees-fringed or cliff-flanked paradise. Something in common goes through these light-sanded strips watered by shapely breaker. While we look at the surfers and body-boarders who compete for a wave, a leitmotiv constantly comes back. Dumbstruck, our look doesn't come off these heavenly expanses any more ; last shangri-la for the people stressed by the urban hubbub.
Our eyes decipher the waves in the distance. Only a board is missing...

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At the end of the day, we visit the Uluwatu temple. Sanctuary of more-or-less-aggressive monkeys which have the unfortunate tendency of grabbing everything that juts out from the pockets. The sun goes down on the horizon, our eyes leap from the ocean to the reddening sky. The twilight sweeps away the last rays of this wonderful day.

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