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RTW2-South Africa

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Monday 21 July 2008

overnight in the kingdom of Swaziland

We leave the Kruger reserve and get in one of the last kingdoms of Africa, Swaziland. A tiny country bordered by South Africa and Mozambique. A the immigration post, a wall-hanging photo displays the traditionally-clad king. Because one of the features of this small nation lies in its strong culture and its deep ties in traditions. The road rolls to get to the Ezulwini valley. Our path turns off to the left and we reach the wildlife sanctuary of Milwane which stands out against the foothills of the valley. We stop to spend the night within the reserve. On the lake, a few-square-meter island is weighed down by a heap of hippopotamuses. Among the tall grass, a group of rare antelopes. A forgotten park, far from the classical itinerary described by the tourists. Light night in the kingdom of Swaziland.

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The next day, we walk into the intimacy of the Manzini market. Then we gently drift southwards and close this interlude away from the South African bustle.

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Sunday 20 July 2008

the Kruger park: a nation dedicated to the wildlife

At the eastern part of South Africa, stretching from the Limpopo river at the north to the Crocodile river at the south and flanking the Mozambique border, the largest and oldest South-African park is located: the Kruger park. As vast as Israel, it encompasses various ecosystems and hundreds of thousands of animals. The last inventory discloses : 25150 buffaloes
11700 elephants
5000 white rhinoceroses
3000 hippopotamuses
1500 lions
1000 leopards
2000 spotted hyenas
200 cheetahs
350 wild dogs
150000 impalas
32000 zebras
17000 wildebeests
and 1 000 000 visitors per year
To the visitors getting into the park, the tourist brochure announces « a trip in an inestimable heritage of southern Africa ». The staggering figures promise unforgettable encounters. They can be felines, cattle or pachyderms, each confrontation is unique ; each meeting, a part of feelings that vanishes. To silence their number, the impalas show their grace. Because, it's regarding to the quantity of rare animals we can recognize a lucky person or a good visual hunter. Our result is honourable with about ten hyenas, 2 lions, a white rhinoceros and tens or even hundreds of zebras, wildebeests, kudus, impalas, hippopotamuses and elephants. The leopard is still untraceable. It will remain the Hluhluwe-Umfolozi park to complete our “big 5” list.
We drive a lot to cover the different habitats and ecosystems. Steep-sided rivers, rocky areas, fields of twisted or partially jointed shrubs, long savannah plains. Our eyes scan the branches with obstinacy, in search for the spotted feline. On the knees, a map with all the animals we can find here. We learn a lot of names such as waterbuck, sable antelope, kori bastard or ground-hornbill. Unfortunately, most of these names will remain linked to an illustration.
New odyssey among the animals. New joys.

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Friday 18 July 2008

The waterfalls around the Blyde river canyon

Bye Bye Botswana. A heartening an encouraging country. Heartening to meet all these inhabitants proud of their identity and of their country and encouraging because it can be an example for a lot of African countries. Democracy and political stability in spite of several ethnic groups which form the country, relationship between White and Black people in a fraternity tone and corruption-free. A country to go and discover.
We drive several hours to get to the town of Sabie in the Limpopo province. A succession of waterfalls scatters around. Whatever we call them, Lone Creek, MacMac, Berlin or Lisbon, each one vies for captivating us and bewitching with their melody. Basin or river embodies the container of these crazy drops drawn towards the edge.

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The mist cuts short the God's Window panorama and we pass to the next stop on the scenic road of the Blyde river canyon. Bourke's luck potholes : a smooth stone gnawed by the water. cylinder-like erosion-bored shapes juxtapose.

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Last stage at the « three rondavels », some rocky greenery-capped bulbs intertwine on the giant meanders of the canyon. The sky is gray and hideous then the nature is in its best to inebriate us. The dull weather hardly grazes the beauty of this scenery.

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