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Saturday 13 September 2008

A certain conception of the happiness

No sooner said than done, I pack my bag and leave to try my luck on the east coast of the Malaysian peninsular. According to the weather forecasts, it should be fine – or not rain at least. The choice of the islands is quite large and I opt for Pulau Redang, not really an island for backpackers since to get there we must book a package in advance which includes nights and submarine activities. The harbour is rather chaotic. Each resort has its own boat or subcontracts this part to another resort and without a guide it would have been hard to find my way by myself. The journey lasts one hour when I swap the shuttle-boat for a small one, about a hundred meters from the shore.
I take off my shoes and land on a barren beach. A strip of sand a series of bungalows are laid on and surrounded by a thick forest of coconut trees. It's off-season which accentuates the Robinson Crusoe of my arrival. This narrow strand of sand gathers everything I like, walking alone one a remote beach, scaling on the rocks where monkeys took up residence, sitting down and listening to the rumble of the water or turning over the sand to look for shells. I entertain a certain conception of happiness.

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To complete this peaceful life, the day is made up of 2 or 3 dives to enjoy the pleasure of the underwater landscapes. And the most difficult thing when I flounder into the water is to see my pressure gauge invariably going down and realize kicking up is inevitable because I don't have air in the tank any more.

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Sunday 7 September 2008

the Langkawi island in the rain


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On the west coast, not far from the Thai border, the favourite holiday spot for Malaysians and Singaporeans is called Langkawi. An island described as a heaven.
Malaysia possesses the special feature to have two monsoon periods. When this one stops on the west coast, it moves towards the east side. I'm sorry not to give the lie to weather forecasts which are similar for decades not to say centuries and foresee the rain in this part of the world in September! I won't see the sun throughout my short sojourn on the island. I can't unfortunately make do with diving since the underwater visibility is disastrous. This assessment will be the main reason of my early departure; I will try my luck on the islands of the east coast.
The next day of my arrival, I rent a scooter and set out on a trip around the island. Its corners are empty of tourists and its lovely beaches desperately dark. The sun doesn't definitely break through this thick layer of inhospitable clouds. I thread my way inland, its undulating relief is covered by a lush vegetation. A cable-car propels me at the top of one of these peaks to enjoy the view. A little bit further, a waterfall makes its way down the hill. This scooter ride invigorates me. Despite the dull colours of the landscapes and the water, I like this feeling of freedom in such an island and wandering about the beaches as a castaway. So, even during the monsoon, it's worth the trip.

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Friday 5 September 2008

the multi-ethnic city of Kuala Lumpur

I land on the malaysian capital without really knowing what can happen here. I'm going to discover a city made of contrasts, between traditions and modernity, between men dressed in three-piece suit rushing in the streets and deep Muslim dominance which gives rhythm to the majority of the people. My stroll starts in the Petaling street, backbone of the Chinatown district where the counterfeited tee-shirts meet the fake perfumes and the handbag copies. Smoke-filled food-packed stands, where we come and eat at anytime, fill in the gaps of the street. A few steps away, I cross the pavement and immerse myself in another culture walking through the little India district, a colourful market where we can buy every kind of flowers or saris. It's not unusual to hear speaking in Chinese, Hindi or English into these bustling streets because the Malaysian society is a melting pot of different waves of immigrations which little by little integrate with the local people. These horizontal-expanding districts stand out against the neo-skyscrapers which popped out of the ground here and there and where long national flags proudly hang on the walls. Breathtaking verticality, synonymous of a fast-thriving country. A lot of people talk about Malaysia 2020, a project started at the beginning of the 70s which plans to deeply change the country within 50 years. The objective is that Malaysia becomes a developed country by the year 2020. But this project, which is an economic and social expansion before all, doesn't develop to the detriment of its roots, religious in particular. Numerous mosques dot throughout the city. And the fervour at the prayer time is really astounding.

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One of highlights of my visit is located at the foot of the Petronas towers of the eponymous oil-company. The symbol of a city and of the whole country. A lot of elements in its building and architecture are linked to Islam, with a pentagonal structure at some places in reference to the 5 pillars of the religion. This monument reaches 452m, a staggering height which kept the title of highest skyscraper in the world for several years before being dethroned by the Taipei tower 101 in Taiwan. It however keeps the world title of highest double structure. A concrete- and iron-made colossal giant which arrays itself in phosphorescent shades when the night comes.

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Half an hour from the capital, I finish my visit of Kuala Lumpur and its surroundings by climbing the 273 steps open onto the Batu caves. A huge cavity that shelters a Hindu temple and attract tourists as well as faithful people.

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