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Friday 21 November 2008

among old stones and seasides


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On the way which brings us back to the Caribbean coast, we stop at different Mayan sites and various seasides that pleasantly cut off the long car journey. The tourist-deserted Kohunlich ruins or the most popular ones of Coba or Tulum show a part of all the remnants left by the Mayan Empire. A so rich civilization that new cities are regularly discovered in the middle of the forest which stretches out from Mexico to Honduras. For the stone lovers, a trip to the Yucatan is no sinecure. To talk again about Tulum, it nestles on the seashore with its foundations that dip in the Caribbean Sea. Despite its small size, it offers an almost perfect panorama to let oneself go to a sunset.

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Tuesday 18 November 2008

Palenque: in the heart of the forest


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Within the Chiapas state, on the land of the Zapatist Revolutionary Army (EZLN) with the subcommandante Marcos in the front line, we went and got a jungle-nestled Mayan site. We emancipate from the Yucatan peninsula for a couple of days at the edge of the Guatemalan border. From the pleasant town of Palenque we reach the eponymous archaeological site. The city differs from the previous ones as for the style and with the harmonious invasion of the nature. Because, except the core of the ancient Mayan capital, basking in the glow of nice stone buildings, the jungle is everywhere. The trees take roots into the foundations of the edifices driving to a symbiosis between the nature and the archaeological remnants. A visit which is worth misdemeanour, hundreds of kilometers from Cancun.

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In the surroundings of Palenque, two other highlights see their car parks filling up during the day. The first one is the Misol-Ha waterfall, a thin curtain of water, encircled by the same greenery that sheltered the Mayan site and the second one, an amassing of limestone basins which pour into one another. Each point of view looking out onto these short waterfalls invites to a break. Down below, the sun, within its struggle with the clouds, makes shimmer the river when its rays reach the water surface.

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Sunday 16 November 2008

the Mayan city of Uxmal and the ruta Puuc


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We thought that after Chichen Itza, the other Mayan cities would be tasteless, passed over in silence. That was without counting on the elegant city of Uxmal. Admittedly, the game ball doesn't reach the proportions of its elder sister and the main pyramid impresses less but the interest is elsewhere. We find again the gorgeous blend of a nature which embellishes this kind of archaeological remains. Not too much intertwined roots to let the stone breathe which the sun gently ricochet off. But enough foliage to clear away the impression of a theme park creating from nothing. The iguanas run onto the unstable white bricks. We can go round a wall and triumphantly come out through the main gate which looks over the main square. At the bottom of the park, a long staircase drives us to the top. We look back and the previous buildings we just stepped on settle down below. The greatest ones tear the greenish ceiling wallpapered by the foliage of the canopy. A fabulous view Chichen Itza didn't offer to us. That's the way that Uxmal wins the elegance contest beyond dispute.

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And to complete our Mayan collection, a scenic road made of curves cut in the forest links other small undervalued sites which are worth the trip. Kabah, Sayil, Labna or more south, Edzna sound like the elementary particles of one of the most glorious civilizations of the humanity.

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We leave the north of the Yucatan peninsula to head for a third land of Mayan remnants nestled into the Chiapas state, Palenque. The hostel which welcomes us for the night belongs to the coast town of Champoton; nothing exciting but heavy pelicans which have a go at an elegance exercise, perched on wooden blocks.

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