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We thought that after Chichen Itza, the other Mayan cities would be tasteless, passed over in silence. That was without counting on the elegant city of Uxmal. Admittedly, the game ball doesn't reach the proportions of its elder sister and the main pyramid impresses less but the interest is elsewhere. We find again the gorgeous blend of a nature which embellishes this kind of archaeological remains. Not too much intertwined roots to let the stone breathe which the sun gently ricochet off. But enough foliage to clear away the impression of a theme park creating from nothing. The iguanas run onto the unstable white bricks. We can go round a wall and triumphantly come out through the main gate which looks over the main square. At the bottom of the park, a long staircase drives us to the top. We look back and the previous buildings we just stepped on settle down below. The greatest ones tear the greenish ceiling wallpapered by the foliage of the canopy. A fabulous view Chichen Itza didn't offer to us. That's the way that Uxmal wins the elegance contest beyond dispute.

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And to complete our Mayan collection, a scenic road made of curves cut in the forest links other small undervalued sites which are worth the trip. Kabah, Sayil, Labna or more south, Edzna sound like the elementary particles of one of the most glorious civilizations of the humanity.

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We leave the north of the Yucatan peninsula to head for a third land of Mayan remnants nestled into the Chiapas state, Palenque. The hostel which welcomes us for the night belongs to the coast town of Champoton; nothing exciting but heavy pelicans which have a go at an elegance exercise, perched on wooden blocks.

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