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Two 4000-meter-plus peaks, the Mauna Loa and the Mauna Kea, breakthrough the milk-white expanse of clouds which invariably covers the afternoons of Big Island. A road makes its way through the two giants, we travel it for several dozens of kilometers then turn off to the right and rise on the slopes of the Mauna Kea. The vegetation vanishes, a low-growing and crimson grass takes place and wraps the stone-free areas. We close our windows, the cold makes our skin tingle. But the temperatures aren't wintry yet when a layer of snow strews the heights of the volcano.
The purity of the sky attracts worldwide astronomers and a flock of white- or silvery-domed metallic mushrooms thrusts up on the top. These observatories and telescopes use the latest technologies to attempt to fathom out the stars and other luminous and radio-electrical manifestations. We park near the largest telescope in the world. The surrounding ocean of clouds doesn't take long to soak up ochre shades and we remain silent in front of the sun which slowly disappears on the horizon.
When the night is dark enough, halfway up the hill, a group of amateur or professional astronomers give us explanations about the starry vault. Electronically-controlled portable telescopes point at remarkable objects such as galaxies or cosmic clouds. An informal and educational encounter between a group of enthusiasts and a handful of tourist eager for understanding a little bit more of what happens overhead.