I land on the malaysian capital without really knowing what can happen here. I'm going to discover a city made of contrasts, between traditions and modernity, between men dressed in three-piece suit rushing in the streets and deep Muslim dominance which gives rhythm to the majority of the people. My stroll starts in the Petaling street, backbone of the Chinatown district where the counterfeited tee-shirts meet the fake perfumes and the handbag copies. Smoke-filled food-packed stands, where we come and eat at anytime, fill in the gaps of the street. A few steps away, I cross the pavement and immerse myself in another culture walking through the little India district, a colourful market where we can buy every kind of flowers or saris. It's not unusual to hear speaking in Chinese, Hindi or English into these bustling streets because the Malaysian society is a melting pot of different waves of immigrations which little by little integrate with the local people. These horizontal-expanding districts stand out against the neo-skyscrapers which popped out of the ground here and there and where long national flags proudly hang on the walls. Breathtaking verticality, synonymous of a fast-thriving country. A lot of people talk about Malaysia 2020, a project started at the beginning of the 70s which plans to deeply change the country within 50 years. The objective is that Malaysia becomes a developed country by the year 2020. But this project, which is an economic and social expansion before all, doesn't develop to the detriment of its roots, religious in particular. Numerous mosques dot throughout the city. And the fervour at the prayer time is really astounding.
One of highlights of my visit is located at the foot of the Petronas towers of the eponymous oil-company. The symbol of a city and of the whole country. A lot of elements in its building and architecture are linked to Islam, with a pentagonal structure at some places in reference to the 5 pillars of the religion. This monument reaches 452m, a staggering height which kept the title of highest skyscraper in the world for several years before being dethroned by the Taipei tower 101 in Taiwan. It however keeps the world title of highest double structure. A concrete- and iron-made colossal giant which arrays itself in phosphorescent shades when the night comes.
Half an hour from the capital, I finish my visit of Kuala Lumpur and its surroundings by climbing the 273 steps open onto the Batu caves. A huge cavity that shelters a Hindu temple and attract tourists as well as faithful people.
Keyword - culture shock -
Friday 5 September 2008
the multi-ethnic city of Kuala Lumpur
By dorian on Friday 5 September 2008, 09:32 - RTW2-Malaysia
Monday 21 July 2008
overnight in the kingdom of Swaziland
By dorian on Monday 21 July 2008, 20:51 - RTW2-South Africa
We leave the Kruger reserve and get in one of the last kingdoms of Africa, Swaziland. A tiny country bordered by South Africa and Mozambique. A the immigration post, a wall-hanging photo displays the traditionally-clad king. Because one of the features of this small nation lies in its strong culture and its deep ties in traditions. The road rolls to get to the Ezulwini valley. Our path turns off to the left and we reach the wildlife sanctuary of Milwane which stands out against the foothills of the valley. We stop to spend the night within the reserve. On the lake, a few-square-meter island is weighed down by a heap of hippopotamuses. Among the tall grass, a group of rare antelopes. A forgotten park, far from the classical itinerary described by the tourists. Light night in the kingdom of Swaziland.
The next day, we walk into the intimacy of the Manzini market. Then we gently drift southwards and close this interlude away from the South African bustle.
Sunday 13 July 2008
The earth which rumbles at Victoria Falls
By dorian on Sunday 13 July 2008, 19:08 - RTW2-Zimbabwe
A day of 1855, Livingstone, Scottish missionary and explorer, ventured onto the rough waters of the Zambezi river. He had to draw alongside one of the bank when he faced a sizable obstacle. Locally known as Mosi-Oa-Tunya, « the smoke that thunders », he was the first European to wonder at what the modern world will know under the name of Victoria falls and often ranked at one of the 7 natural wonders of the world. He got back to his country to tell his exploits before leaving again for a new African expedition ; this odd virus, subtle blend of trip, exploration and African colors he will keep up to his death.
About 150 years later, the wonder is the same. Triumphant welcome in an aquatic rumble. We fade in the cloud of steam which hovers above thre vegetation. Meanwhile, numerous figures and books have completed the David Livingstone's discovery. 108 m high and 1,7 km wide, the waterfalls are shared by Zambia and Zimbabwe. Zambia allows a nearer access while the Zimbabwean side is three times broader. The rate of flow which rushes into the precipice can be multiplied by 25 during the wet season. A wide metallic bridge links the 2 countries a steam train still runs onto and reminds the colonial era when Zambia and Zimbabwe were called Rhodesia.
It's perilous to put some words in order to describe the enchanting saga the nature unfolds. The purists or blasé people will say its only running water. I stay dumbstruck in front of this deluge. The cliff cries with joy and my eyes become iridescent as this multicolored scar which decorates the cataracts.
From this famous metallic bridge, we can observe the curtain of water that crashes at the bottom of the canyon, take back-lit photographes or enjoy the noise of a river abruptly stopped by a sheer drop.
But something else keeps my mind. If I changed into one of these drops and felt this fall sensation. I turn back towards the other side of the bridge. What happens next is in the 3 videos below...
To complete the view of the waterfalls, we take off with a helicopter for fifteen minutes. Exquisite view from the sky. It seems a mere gash grazed the plain. We approach to this curiosity. An indelebile image engraves our retinas. This somptuous water-soothed river the geography rouses. A ball of steam escapes from the bowels of the earth. Celestial sight of terrestrial heaven.
Despite the recent events which broke out in Zimbabwe and the loaded elections of the president Mugabe, that's in this country we have decided to see the waterfalls. And the situation of the Zimbabwean was gut-drenching to the point to leave a bitter taste to the natural wonder we hear in the background. Travellers desertion who, in view of the instability of the country, prefer to go to Zambia is made worse by a currency which knows an inflation without precedent (we can change 50 billions Zimbabwean doolars for 1 US dollar, in 2000 the rate was 100 for 1!). These two factors cause a plummeting tourism and an economy in desperate ; a disastrous situation that strikes the inhabitants full-force, inhabitants who essentially not to say exclusively live on this sector. So when these latter catch sight of a tourist, they rush towards him to try their luck, sell a bracelet or a carved figurine. Without being able to confine the destitution with a wave of the magic wand, we have to repeat « no » all the time while we wander about the streets of Victoria Falls. We have the blues to refuse to give one dollar to all of these poor people that only need a little bit of money to survive. Some of them are ready to trade a statuette for a pair of shoes or a T-shirt. And despite their distress, they succeed in keeping smiling. The life is unfair and the everyday life is definitely not the same if wr're bron European or Zimbabwean. Despite all of that, we try to spend some nice time with them, attempting a few jokes to see half-smiling. While we plan our future wondering what our next destination will be, they don't see further than the present evening wondering what wil fill their plate. Sad reality.
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