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Wednesday 9 July 2008

Mokoro trip in the Okavango delta

A short stop in Windhoek. Just the time to walk up the main street of the Namibian capital city, the independence avenue. A small 200000-soul city we leave in the morning to head eastwards, to Botswana. Warthogs, baboons and hornbills liven up the long straight tarmac road carved in the plain. Border crossing. The authorities stamp our passports. Our admission ticket for Botswana is validated. Namibia moves away and new adventures begin. I feel a twinge of sadness : Namibia, that was really nice!

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We drive for 400 km to reach the city of Maun, a launching pad to go to the Okavango delta. The Okavango, one of the few rivers which never reaches the sea. Instead of pouring into a water expanse, the river splits into a mass of branches and canals. A huge swamp spotted with myriad of islands where the African fauna lives in peace. Elephants, antelopes, zebras, wildebeests, giraffes and hippopotamuses graze in this green delta.
To organize the visit of the delta, we stay in a nice campsite called “Back to... the old bridge backpackers”. African rhythm illustrated by the motto “hakuna matata”. Smiles, laughs, rest and joie de vivre are the bricks that make up this haven of peace.

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The campsite works an upstream village called “Boro”. From the village, the locals offer mokoro (traditional canoe) trip on the Okavango delta. It's rather a trunk-carved gondola – the most recent ones are coated with a resin to make it more resistant. And the helmsman uses a long stick to go forward.
We leave the campsite by boat to reach the village. Serene navigation on the peaceful waters of the delta.


when we arrived, a lot of canoes float. A rotation system avoids the crush between the different villagers. We make the acquaintance of Moralé, our gondolier and guide for the next 2 days. We load the bags and get into the mokoro. We team up with 2 other boats which we're going to spend the 2 days with. Moralé firmly pushes the bank and we leave towards the tall grass. Silence. The pole shakes the water and the vegetation opens in front of us. We mark our print in the swamp.

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we put up the camp on one of these islands. We swap our wooden boat for a pair of shoes and a pair of trousers in order to venture in this bit of land abandoned to the wildlife. A hike through the African-sunkissed scrubs. Unlike the Etosha park, no waterhole was built and the animals which populate the area live in complete freedom. We come up to a group of elephants. The mother's attitude dissuades us from walking nearer. A few steps away, zebras and wildebeests live together and help at each other. The wildebeest has a very acute eyesight when the zebra shares its sense of smell to the community.

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The sun sets. We gather around the fire where our guide succinctly relates the history of Botswana and its people and starts singing the national anthem. A lively evening between laughs and cultural exchanges surrounded by some noises coming from the remotest part of the savannah.
In the morning, we take back our mokoros and make our way through the aquatic plants. Neighs rise from all around us. We come out onto a small pond where big mammals splash about. A massive head adorned with two small ears float above the water. First confrontation with a hippopotamus. Suddenly, breaking the serenity of the lake, a mass appears out of the water. One of the hippopotamuses attempts to intimidate us, it shows its annoyance. Burning desire of seeing us leaving the pond it has chosen to swim with its family.


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We arrive at the village and change the mokoros for the engine-powered boat. We extend the gliding on the Okavango marsh to go back to the campsite. End of our short but nice story in the delta.

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Saturday 24 November 2007

Paddling in Marlborough sound

Time goes by and here we are again at the north end of the south island. A little bit less than three weeks we live at a high rate. But how could it be in another way when we thing about all the activities and the diversity of the landscapes that form this island?
From the landing stage of Picton, we distinguish the endless comings and goings of the ferries. Two companies, Blue Bridge and Inter Islander share the juicy business of the cruises between the two islands. But before driving northwards to Auckland, we decide to spend a few days here. Not to vegetate in the quiet streets of the village but enjoying this time in a kayak.
A 3-day short expedition. We fill the waterproof compartments with some food and camping gears and we leave the beach to venture on to the fjord. The first part consists in crossing the sound that separates us from the opposite bank. Trees and shrubs brush against the water. The shore is a heaven of curves, twists and creeks. A delicately chiseled scenery where numerous small beaches interrupt the greenish tangle of the vegetation. A brown rock sometimes breaks through the green curtain and displays its set of mussels which delights us more than once. One of these short beaches welcomes us for the lunch.

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With the stomach full, we start again for a short stage towards another creek and another beach where we set up the camp. First night in the greenery of Marlborough Sound.

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The next morning, we take down the tent, we divide the load into the waterproof compartments and start again for the coastal discovery. A slight ripple sprays us and a morning breeze makes our paddling more difficult. We explore the jagged coast outline and row up to the end of the fjord where we set up our tent on a new beach. A relaxed night sandwiched by the calm water of the sound and the emerald fence of the forest.

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Third and last day, we paddle into every creek that leads us to Picton. The coastal contour sometimes belongs to rich Neawzealanders where a big villa looks over a private beach and a wooden landing stage. We hop off the kayak on a last beach for a delicious lunch. Pleasure of these last spots of nature before going back to the pier.

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Friday 16 November 2007

Kayak trip in Doubtful Sound

The discovery of Doubtful Sound is pretty complicated since we need to take a first boat to cross the Manapouri lake before hopping on a bus up to the mouth of the fjord. The ones who survived these 2 tests generally choose a second boat to enjoy the cruise, sipping a drink. On the other hand, this relative difficulty of access is a guarantee of tranquility pushing away the herds of tourists who prefer keeping in mind the images and steep lines of Milford Sound. As for us, after the trek, we are going to relax our legs and make our arms work because we decided to discover this area by kayak.
Doubtful sound doesn't have the greatness and the mind-boggling verticality of Milford sound but we sample the exquisite pleasure of feeling alone. Our paddles break through the oily sea and twist the reflected images of the flora kingdom that flanks the banks. The cliffs are notched by sterilized, clean gullies. On the walls, the nature is so dense that the ground isn't tough enough to support the weight of all this vegetation and the extra scrub triggers a tree avalanche which washes out a whole part of the granite wall and throws roots, trunks and branches into the abyss of the fjord.
We won't eyewitness this defeaning chaos and our paddles that gently stroke the water are the most violent noise we'll hear. A supreme serenity in an outstanding country.

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