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Monday 30 June 2008

The white rhinoceros of the Waterberg plateau


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Our first meeting with the animals of the savannah will take place on the Waterberg plateau. A huge rocky outgrowth surrounded by a curtain of cliffs the fate of the geology knocked in the middle of a plain. An approach track leads to this natural fortress where a flock of animals graze. Animals which, without knowing it, are prisoners of this lost world. Between the upper and lower part of the plateau, the vegetation diversity is striking. Jeep safaris are offered to go and discover these animals. We hop on one of them and let's go to the plateau...


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Few animals to be noted despite all our attention. Some warthogs wonder about these aliens which step on their land. A quite-paradoxical animal since it is particularly fond of wallowing in the mud but still keeps a certain elegance to escape, the tail up. A little bit further, an eland – the biggest antelope – bolts in front of us. We unsuccessfully stop at several waterholes when, on a dirt track, three greyish colossuses loom. One of them faces us. A wonderful 2-ton-plus double-horned white rhinoceros. It feels the intruder's presence without really distinguishing it. We slowly go on when the rhino charges at us! The driver's composure is heroic – he goes into reverse and the animal stops. The 3 rhinoceroses swiftly cross the road and establish their position on the other bank. Unspeakable feeling of joy to observe these animals in their natural habitat.


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We happily go back to the campsite. A refreshing night to start the stroll up to the edge of the cliffs, the next morning. The rising sun floods the top of the stone. When there is enough light, we begin the walk among red rock and verdant nature. An exploring walk that drives us onto the roof of the plateau. The rough-outlined carmine red stone under our feet and the flat plain as far as the eye can see. Intense silence. Immense serenity.

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To share the pleasure of crossing this African animal life so vivacious, so ferocious sometimes and which habitat is so fragile, here is one of the smallest antelope: the Damara dik-dik. It's not necessarily the biggest animals which are the most beautiful nor the sweetest...


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Saturday 28 June 2008

Roundnesses and steepness of the Spitzkoppe


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End of the dunes, end of the desert, end of the ocean. Change of scenery in the Spitzkoppe massif. The autochtons like to call this mountain the Swiss Matterhorn. A highlight for rock-climbers and an off the beaten track destination which combines relaxed atmosphere and rest for the others. The team that runs the campsite at the bottom of rocky bock is smiling and hospitable. The receptionist improvises a Damara-Nama course. A disconcerting language which you must take off the tongue from the palate for pronouncing a clicking sound before going on with a syllable. Not easy.
We walk away from the campsite to climb the huge round rocks stored among the golden grass. A disneyland-like arrangement of big stones. Without being unforgettable, the Spitzkoppe is however worth the trip. Harmonious roundnesses of its sides and steepness of its crest. The sunset is savoured without moderation : reddening shade of the generously curved rocks on a bed of ochre savannah.

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Thursday 26 June 2008

Flying over the Namib desert and the Skeleton Coast

What a most impressive view of a desert than the one taken from the sky?
We have trusted the Scenic Air company which shares its activities between the scenic flights over the Namib desert and private flights from a lodge to another one. This last option is definitely not our budget, nor the way we see the trip. For us, it's rather backpacking and sleeping in a tent or a dormitory. And all the money we save, we devote it to the activities. I would have prefered the hot-air balloon but the 350-euro price is really prohibitive.. Thus, we go aboard a Cessna, a small plane which can embark up to 6 people including the pilot.

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We gain altitude and leave the city of Swakopmund to fly alongside the Kuiseb river. A bit of recalcitrant life among an arid and barren area. This green strip draws an absolute demarcation between the Namib desert on our right and the Karoo on our left. The stunning perspective between two expanses with this heap of shrubs as only transition.

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We head southwest towards the dunes of Sosssusvlei. The orange- and red-hued draped ground act as a magnet. We have the nose pressed against the window. The shadows and ridges of the wind-made dunes throw us into a scenery as irrational as exquisite. And even if the view from above flattens the heights, the pleasure of admiring these dunes remains intact.

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The dunes fades into the ocean ; the marker on the way back will be this sand- and navy-coloured component. The irony of fate shows this desert, so arid, is desperately short of this water the ocean has in abundance.
The Skeleton Coast contains its secrets and dangers. The Eduard Bohlen's wreck is there as an evidence. A tangle of wooden beams the time gnawed and the sand attracted far from its ocean. The desert kept its trophy and moved it 200m away from the shore.

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Salterns and flying over the town finish this escapade into the air. The images keep on fluttering and fidgeting in our mind.

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