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Thursday 29 November 2007

Dive on the Rainbow Warrior wreck

Off the Cavalli islands coast, an illustrious wreck lays down.
The story of this wreck doesn't summarize in the frenzy of a mere ship which hits a reef or an iceberg and slowly sinks ; it implies a darker affair where words like political scandal, diplomatic crisis, sabotage and secret agents surface. An affair that causes French politics trouble in the middle of the eighties. But before diving in the dismal and unfortunately bloody story of the Rainbow Warrior sabotage, we go to discover the Bay of Island, between flowers and ocean.

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The next day, from Paihia, we take a bus to reach a beach that faces the Cavalli islands. On the lawn of a campsite, we put on the diving equipement and hop on the boat. On board, we are the only two French people and we cannot avoid the mockery of the team. I have to say that the Rainbow Warrior sabotage deeply moved a lot of Newzealanders since it was the first act of this kind on the peaceful territory of the Maoris.
Stopping at the Auckland pier before sailing to the Mururoa atoll in order to protest against the French nuclear tests, the flagship of Greenpeace will never leave the harbour. During the night of the 10th of july 1985, a double explosion rings out, the Rainbow Warrior sinks, ripped open at the engines hall level. Unfortunately, within this act of sabotage, Fernando Pereira, photographer of the pacifist association will be killed. The saboteurs wil be arrested a little time later, creating a big trouble within the French government, the Minister of Foreign Affairs will resign his post and the Prime Minister will have to apologize in the name of the nation as well as a financial compensation to Greenpeace and the New Zealand government.
In this peculiar background, we dive on the wreck, the hull lays down on a 27m-deep sandy bed. The hole of the explosion was filled in again and isn't visible any more while the submarine vegetation invaded all the wreck. We get in the ship through a gaping hole which split its upper deck. After a brilliant career full of struggles of every kind, from now on, it's as shelter of fish it carries on its pacifist action.

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The second dive is around on the Cavalli islands. Giant seaweeds hiding a few fish and nudibranches.

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Saturday 24 November 2007

Paddling in Marlborough sound

Time goes by and here we are again at the north end of the south island. A little bit less than three weeks we live at a high rate. But how could it be in another way when we thing about all the activities and the diversity of the landscapes that form this island?
From the landing stage of Picton, we distinguish the endless comings and goings of the ferries. Two companies, Blue Bridge and Inter Islander share the juicy business of the cruises between the two islands. But before driving northwards to Auckland, we decide to spend a few days here. Not to vegetate in the quiet streets of the village but enjoying this time in a kayak.
A 3-day short expedition. We fill the waterproof compartments with some food and camping gears and we leave the beach to venture on to the fjord. The first part consists in crossing the sound that separates us from the opposite bank. Trees and shrubs brush against the water. The shore is a heaven of curves, twists and creeks. A delicately chiseled scenery where numerous small beaches interrupt the greenish tangle of the vegetation. A brown rock sometimes breaks through the green curtain and displays its set of mussels which delights us more than once. One of these short beaches welcomes us for the lunch.

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With the stomach full, we start again for a short stage towards another creek and another beach where we set up the camp. First night in the greenery of Marlborough Sound.

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The next morning, we take down the tent, we divide the load into the waterproof compartments and start again for the coastal discovery. A slight ripple sprays us and a morning breeze makes our paddling more difficult. We explore the jagged coast outline and row up to the end of the fjord where we set up our tent on a new beach. A relaxed night sandwiched by the calm water of the sound and the emerald fence of the forest.

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Third and last day, we paddle into every creek that leads us to Picton. The coastal contour sometimes belongs to rich Neawzealanders where a big villa looks over a private beach and a wooden landing stage. We hop off the kayak on a last beach for a delicious lunch. Pleasure of these last spots of nature before going back to the pier.

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Saturday 17 November 2007

Adrenalin rush in Queenstown

Save a wad of money, take out a good insurance, pray and come to experiment some adrenalin-pumping moments in the world capital city of the thrilling activities. The city of Queenstown is built on a foothill which fades into the azure waters of the Wakatipu lake. All around, a few snow-capped peaks break through the blue horizon. A cable-car (the Gondola) drops us off at the top of the hill where we have great time driving a luge and rushing down the concrete slopes of the circuit. The multi-hued paraglidings ornate the sky while an America's cup boat draws a fleeting line on the waters of the lake. Near the top of the Gondola, a bunch of crazy people leaps into the void, hanging at a rope. Others go a little bit further to enjoy the thrills of the skydiving, jumping out of a plane at 4000m high. The rivers offer different sensations with the Shotover jet which grazes the walls of a canyon with a breathtaking speed before carrying on a 360° turn. But for the ones who look for more reasonable sensations, the paths in the surroundings of Queenstown offer great moments of relaxation.
As for us, we'll just do a few laps sitting in a luge, a thrilling cruise in the Shotover and the bunjee jump we did a few days before and which we keep a great memory from.

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